Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Rotor (disc) Installation

bbenny

By bbenny,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...
32_Dave Mentor

32_Dave

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok i need help. im doing the rotors on my r33, and cannot for the life of me figure out hoe to undo the caliper bolts on the rear. the frots are easy as you just turn the wheels out

take the rear wheel off. grab ya 17 and undo it from behind the caliper same as front bolted on from behind. and a belive brake calipers should be tensioned up to 89-100 ft pound or for all you dodge kents FT.

piece of piss

Edited by 32_Dave
ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted
ok i need help. im doing the rotors on my r33, and cannot for the life of me figure out hoe to undo the caliper bolts on the rear. the frots are easy as you just turn the wheels out

from memory there is a bracket that holds the brake line or handbrake line. you need to take that off first. then you can access the bolt to take the caliper off.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
Posted

Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread, full rotors and pads job went without a hitch. Only thing I could add to the thread was the front rotors on a R34 GTR with the 324mm rotors will need a 10mm 1.25 pitched bolt instead of the 8mm bolt. And if you get caught like me without the 10mm bolt just take one of the bracket that the steering arm bumps into on full lock as its a 10mm 1.25 bolt.

cheers

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Yep. Did this a couple of months ago. This thread helped me a Sh!t load.

Never done this before and now I've got 4 fresh rotors and pads all round !!!

First one was the slowest and the last was p!ss easy.

Savin' the Buck$ and bonding with my Baby. Love it!

SAU... I Love You!!! :cheers:

  • 2 years later...
GotsWapan Community Regular

GotsWapan

Posted
Posted

Hi, about to do rotors and pads on my R33 which I haven't done before by myself. The old link for the pad changing is no longer valid :(
Is there anything crucial I need to know about changing them? Searched and got an R32 thread but none of the photos work

  • 10 months later...
  • 2 years later...
mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted

Old thread, but very useful to me today...

On 9/26/2006 at 5:48 PM, Flash89 said:

where is the adjuster?

the hand brake adjuster is at the bottom of the whole hand brake shoe assembly that sits inside the rear rotors.

With the rotor off you'll see the adjustment wheel - with the rotor on you need to rotate the hub (with the rubber plug removed from the rotor) so the hole is at the bottom and use a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the wheel the appropriate clicks - as above - rotate upwards until the hand brake shoes bind, then back off (rotate down) 5-6 clicks.

As above, when you have the rotors off, give the mechanism a good spray with Brake Cleaner.

cheers

Mike

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...