Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We have a R34 GTT

Mods:

Link G4

Standard Turbo

Waste spark set up

3" exhaust

Intercooler

Its in the shop, and both the mechanic and us are stumpd as...

The compression in the cylinders is all good

Turbo has been tested, there is no air leaks anywhere

even with the turbo wastegate closed off it will still do 5psi

Any clues on what is happening would be awesome

Cheers R34-CoNvIk

I had a blocked cat that wouldn't let me get boost over 3psi. Its worth taking that out for a look. Mine was running 20psi when I went out and when I came home it was blocked.

Is the dump pipe a split design? It's possible the flap is stuck on the dump's divider (stuck half open for example).

I assume you have some sort of manual boost controller or EBC? You might need to run a new vacuum hose straight from the boost controller (manual or EBC) to the wastegate, and/or a different boost source for it.

  On 30/06/2012 at 9:56 PM, R34-CoNvIk said:

3'' all the way though and still the same.tested the turbo all good the motor has only done 80.000km.HELP HELP its been in the shop 4 six months we stumped

Have you dropped the cat like the guys have suggested? Checked for blockages etc?

yes the cat been cut out.it sounds like it under load when you rev.the blowoff valve goes off early and it set hard its not leaking.timeing been set ova and ova diffrent tunes it must be something .f**k f**k this thing lucky its a skyline.HELP .....SOS...

How about you explain in detail from the beginning what you have tried and don't reply like a text message its hard to read between the lines.

yes the cat been cut out.it sounds like it under load when you rev. <<What exactly are you trying to say.

Are you just assuming the cat has been cut out because it sounds like it under load when you rev.

You have said there is no leaks then you might have a blockage.

What tests were done to the turbo?

Right, we have closed off the wastegate and still got only 5psi

we have put 3" exhaust all the way through,

we have got 5psi before and after the intercooler,

we have retarded and advanced the timing, as well as setting up different O2 values

we have checked that the turbo wheels arent loose

we have checked the compression on all cylinders

we have checked all the injectors, put a waste spark setup on it

There is a link G4 storm installed

we have tried running 20psi through the link and the engine just wont do it?????

we have bypassed the intercooler, going straight from turbo to manifold

TCS has been disconnected (would it help taking the whole unit off the throttle body?)

Cat has been removed.......

all the new electics have been checked over more than 5 times.....

Runs hotter than usual when its idleing

Have put electric fans on @ constant 92 degrees

When engine is reving up in neutral, its as though its taking off in 1st gear, Sounds like its under load

and has no grunt at all when test driven????????????????

Cam Angle Sensor has been replaced

Just a few more questions....

Could it be that the timing belt has slipped a tooth on one of the cams?

Could the crank angle sensor be playing up?

Have the knock sensors got anything to do with this problem?

To me it sounds like its an internal problem?

Any feedback would help greatly

Cheers R34-CoNvIk

it could be that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. i've seen some pretty weird stuff happen with cam timing that is out. a mate had a CA18 with a broken cam (so timing was variable, LOL). yo ucould get it to blow flames by pumping the accelerator at about 2000rpm. it was also a slug at times. sometimes it would drive fine, other times it felt like you had your foot hard on the brakes (this also resulted in it making full boost by about 1500rpm).

This may be a silly question, but do you have any sort of boost control? You say you have "run 20psi" through the link, but if there is no boost solenoid to talk to it wont do anything.

One other thing, check that the auxiliary output for the solenoid is actually switched on. Iv done changes before, and forgot to save them, or loaded and stored old tunes that didnt have recent changes etc.

If the solenoid is non existent, or the auxiliary output isnt configured correctly, then you will only be able to run 5psi. As thats what the stock actuator is rated at.

Try this too, hit F12 while in PCLink with the car connected, it will bring up the runtime values. Find the auxiliary output you wired the boost control to and see if its switched on there. Its also possible it has an RPM lockout. Might need to give it a rev to activate too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, in the same way that you can't tell any SUV from any manufacturer in any size category from any other one, "sports" coupes now all look identical. Stand back and squint your eyes and the Supra and the 400Z and the GR/BRZ things all look the same. I was just thinking last night, when sitting behind a Subaru CrossTrek, that I have no idea what it is, how it differs from an XV, or a Forester, or an Outback, or anything else Subaru offer, and I couldn't tell if it was supposed to be small, medium or large. I contrasted that to the good old days, where a HQ Kingswood had familial similarities to an LJ Torana, but there is no way that you could confuse them, and how a bit later, the HX Kinger and the concurrent Torana and the Gemini all had familial similarities, but you still could not confuse them. Ditto the ugly Fords and Chryslers of the era. But now, a RAV4 looks like a Kluger, looks like a Yaris/Cross/whatever they're calling those stupid f**king things, looks like every other Toyota that's not a Camry/Corolla sedan.
    • The Prelude doesn't look that bad without all that lens distortion in those pics. Makes it look disproportionate when it isn't. Actually I kind of liked it at the Osaka Auto Messe earlier this year. 
    • Pour in the highest octane, non-ethanol fuel you can get and see if the readout changes. If it's dead bang on 11% then I would question the sensor. Another quick test, just take it out and run normal (in an american accent) gas-o-line through it and see if the sampled ethanol or lack of changes.   United E85 here in the land of drop bears does vary a bit, I've had as high as E87 (could be water in their tanks too, who knows)
    • Yep. And if you ever do, you'll just have to deal with it then.
    • E10 is pretty tightly regulated in percentage. Too much and engines can't adapt. Every incentive is against them to have too little ethanol though. The more ethanol the higher the octane.
×
×
  • Create New...