Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just remember; anything you put in your washer bottle will end up on your paint.

I don't wash my car with Windex. :no:

Well it contains

* isopropyl alcohol

* propylene glycol

* ammonia

I was looking up what these might do to rubber & paint > went off to sleep lol

Well it contains

* isopropyl alcohol

* propylene glycol

* ammonia

I was looking up what these might do to rubber & paint > went off to sleep lol

I assume the first two ingredients are bad as they are alcohol based?

Can't be good for windscreen seals either..

I use Windex on a rag to clean off cutting compound as I was recommended isopropyl, but only in small doses ..I wouldn't put it in my washer, not straight anyway maybe watered down a lot...sounds like a waste of money anyway Windex isn't cheap..just get washer mix from SCA or something its like 5$ and lasts ages..I bought a bottle and sharing it between 3 cars has lasted over a year, still have half a bottle left..

  • 2 weeks later...

Dont do it

It kills your paint, rubber, streaks like hell on glass and paint and makes your wipers dry out and shutter / hop destroying the motor and blades as they move across

The evaperation is too fast at speed and it makes a mess

The only time you need anything beyond water is if it gets below freezing ( which will crack your bottle and lines ) even the stuff posted above stuffs your detailed car up , best left for old crappy cars and mud bog trucks

You can buy paste glasswax and it works to keep bugs off and water stains or rain ex if applied in a few thin layers works but only at speed , its meant for race cars and planes

Just buy decent blades and change them yearly

And just like anything rainex and wax wears off , do it as part of a detail job min to keep acid rain or tap water from etching the glass

Edited by Carbon 34

Nothing beats new blades, So quite, No streaks, No mess. Cheap and under 10 min to install

Though i have been looking for a good Glasswax like rainex ect.

Can anyone comfirm if thats the sam stuff the race cars use when they have stripped all wipers and washer bottles?

I use Rain-X on my windows, and they do a washer additive that I also use. It doesn't leave any visible residue or spotting on my paint.

It seems to stretch out the time between reapplication of Rain-X, especially in the wiper track; which always wears off first.

Definitely agree with new wiper blades; also helps with reducing wiper track scratching, as the blades get older with more rubbish embedded in them.

Edited by Daleo

Nothing beats new blades, So quite, No streaks, No mess. Cheap and under 10 min to install

Though i have been looking for a good Glasswax like rainex ect.

Can anyone comfirm if thats the sam stuff the race cars use when they have stripped all wipers and washer bottles?

Yes its the real stuff but built up over lots of thin layers to work, you can buy glasswax from USA its pretty cheap under 20 bucks some megs wax works but beware some waxes stuff the wipers and they shudder bad , those silicone blade suck too unless its a downpour , splatters of water they clean to well and the backstroke is bouncing blades

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...