Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went for a charity car cruise yesterday..car had been very rarely not wanting to go into gear (i.e i'd have the clutch all the way in and it wouldn't select)

Didn't think much of it as it would just be a little grind when trying to shift quickly, when I Went slower it went in.

Went to do a 3 point turn in a car park, put clutch down to the floor....no pressure.

Pushed the car into a parking spot, saw clutch fluid all over the ground.

Spoken to a few of my mechanic mates they all think it's the slave cylinder that has failed, does anyone have any idea? Or seen this before?

Car has a HKS Twin Plate clutch.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403865-clutch-slave-cylinder-maybe-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Was your reservoir empty? If its the slave you"ll see fluid leaking. Fill the reservoir and watch it while someone pushes on the pedal (and look elsewhere on the line for leaks) Get a torch and look under the clutch pedal for interior leaks from the M/C and then under the bonnet.

Yes, when I checked it at the time, it was empty.

Ok thanks, I will give that a try - in the mean time should I shop around for a slave cylinder?

There was fluid all over the ground in the initial spot, and again when I moved the car when the tow truck came.

Edited by ls128

Yes, buy a slave. Also buy a master, as it will also be old and ready to die. Also, buy a braided hose if you're not feeling too poor. You will appreciate the feel.

+11ty. This is excellent advice.

It's definitely the slave, had a proper look under the car tonight. For the extra 15 dollars I will probably go to JustJap as it is very very very local for me, Not sure if I will do the master, as that makes it a much bigger job then just slave, correct?

"Keep the feeling"?

It's a twin plate..its the heaviest clutch I have ever felt!

Just jap has slave for 115, master is 300..braided clutch hose is about 150.

I wasn't referring to clutch feeling. Read between the lines (Toyota genuine parts - keep the feeling)

I wasn't referring to clutch feeling. Read between the lines (Toyota genuine parts - keep the feeling)

Heh yeah, I realised that about an hour after I replied and was re-reading the post.

Got a genuine nissan slave for $105. Swapping it out tomorrow morning and bleeding. lets hope!

  • 4 weeks later...

So, Swapped Slave cylinder, Master cylinder - now when the car is in gear, and the clutch all the way down to the ground, car will creep forward like the clutch isn't engaged.. looks like i'm up for a new clutch :(

So, Swapped Slave cylinder, Master cylinder - now when the car is in gear, and the clutch all the way down to the ground, car will creep forward like the clutch isn't engaged.. looks like i'm up for a new clutch :(

Disagree - what you have still sounds like its not fully disengaged. My guess is there's still air in hydraulic system. I'm told it can be a bitch to bleed the clutch hydraulics, especially the "dampener box", or whatever its called.

Disagree - what you have still sounds like its not fully disengaged. My guess is there's still air in hydraulic system. I'm told it can be a bitch to bleed the clutch hydraulics, especially the "dampener box", or whatever its called.

Ok abit more info:

Saturday, put a new master cylinder on. Adjusted the master cylinder inside the cabin (almost all the way, only 1-2mm of thread left) Worked for about 20 minutes of driving, then started doing the same issue. Often won't go into first, or reverse. Start the car in first, with the clutch fully in and the car will crawl forward like it is in gear (despite the clutch being foot to the floor.

System was gravity bled and pump bled for an hour. in total we bled it 3-4 times.

Spoke to a mechanic friend and he says that he had a similar issue and when he pulled his clutch out several of the clutch springs had come loose.

Suggest you grab someone who knows how to adjust the push rod on the master cylinder.

No way is it right if you're down to the last threads ????????

Have you any free travel at all?

Without free travel the master cylinder will never prime correctly.

Did anyone check the booster unit.

We adjusted it more because before adjusting the rod it still wasn't giving enough pressure - my mechanic had a look and he said there was enough free travel.

Check booster unit as in how? We didn't touch the adjustment rod inside the booster unit.

Saturday, put a new master cylinder on. Adjusted the master cylinder inside the cabin (almost all the way, only 1-2mm of thread left) Worked for

System was gravity bled and pump bled for an hour. in total we bled it 3-4 times.

Where did you bleed it from? If its just from the slave, then that I dont think it will be effective. Actually, i cant really see the point of a bleeder on the slave....

Where did you bleed it from? If its just from the slave, then that I dont think it will be effective. Actually, i cant really see the point of a bleeder on the slave....

Yeah from the slave..after we dropped all the fluid out and put the new master cylinder on. We spent a fair bit of time making sure all the air was out of the system..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...