Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone find out who can get our Bose-Clarion PN-2414e unit with this error fixed in Australia or overseas and for how much? Or better yet, has anyone fixed it themselves?

There are a few reasons for this error to appear -

Circuit board problem

Cracked plastic gear

Jammed mechanism

The reasons for my CD ERR FO is the mechanism jamming which occured when I was switching tracks. I took the CD-Changer apart with the help of my father-electrician, but it proved too complex for him to figure out which part is stuck. The mechanism looks intact and not tampered with before - the car had just 40k on clock when bought.

The solutions I am considering -

Buying new unit from the US ($300), but it is missing one of the output at the back - probably for Navigation which I have.

Sending old unit to the US for repair ($150 repaired plus shipping)

Edited by Stayer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/
Share on other sites

You can get them fixed in Aust, but I believe the cost is significant. It would be worthwhile looking at the double DIN facia and an aftermarket head unit.

If you want to keep a factory type unit, you could post it to the US for repair. Or you should be able to pick up a 2nd hand G35 head unit for less than $300. I picked up a bose G35 head unit for US$170. If you decide to go down this route, you have the obvious risk of it not working when it gets here.. If you go new or 2nd hand from USA, make sure you buy like for like (bose with navi with a G35 bose with navi), then it should be a simple swap. And the G35 HUs can play MP3 CDs.

The hard part will be getting your CDs out of the old unit.. I believe it requires major surgery..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426268
Share on other sites

You can get them fixed in Aust, but I believe the cost is significant. It would be worthwhile looking at the double DIN facia and an aftermarket head unit.

If you want to keep a factory type unit, you could post it to the US for repair. Or you should be able to pick up a 2nd hand G35 head unit for less than $300. I picked up a bose G35 head unit for US$170. If you decide to go down this route, you have the obvious risk of it not working when it gets here.. If you go new or 2nd hand from USA, make sure you buy like for like (bose with navi with a G35 bose with navi), then it should be a simple swap. And the G35 HUs can play MP3 CDs.

The hard part will be getting your CDs out of the old unit.. I believe it requires major surgery..

thanks for that! where did you get it from if you don't mind me asking?

also, isn't the G35 unit you bought comes from Series 2 G35? I believe Series 2 (2005) V35s had MP3 player already.

I would be happy to get Series 2 Head-Unit with MP3 function, however, not sure if it would fit Series 1 as Series 1 has climate controls inside it and Series 2 doesn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426415
Share on other sites

That's a good point, you will need to get a S1 deck if you have a S1 V35. I believe the connectors are different between the S1 and S2. Also, as you know, the face panel is different, and you will probably need this from the G35 too.

The S2 V35 doesn't play MP3s.. it does had a MD player, perhaps that is where the confusion has come from? That is the main reason I got the G35 HU, as I wanted MP3 playback. and it was cheaper than the Double DIN setup or the iPod I/F.

I found mine on the G35driver 'for sale' section. They pop up on there every now and then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426502
Share on other sites

I had the same issue when I got my car ages ago. I simply removed the unit and give it a nice kick, then all the CDs came out, but mine had other issues (no sound at all) you might wanna give it a go. Remove the unit and shake it a little bit. or better replace it with a 7" DVD player as I did.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6437465
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

sent 3 of you the link too

to be clear, that's the link to the offer of repair service

however, after I told him that I'm from Australia, he offered me to sent CD-Mechanism for the cost of repair to save me on shipping costs

also, CD ERR F0 may results from different problems (electrical, for example), mine was purely mechanical as CD-Mechanism stuck while I was changing disks on the move

so, talk to the guy about your problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6492626
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I do like how you said "the car had just 40k on clock when bought." .... I haven't seen a V35 go through the Jp auctions with 40k on it since about 2005, yet you can find them all along Parramatta Road and other similar places with these sort of km on them. Truth be told for under $100 a guy can come out and make your odo say whatever you want. Just sayin'.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6727225
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
    • Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter My OEM NC1 CAI pipe: From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL   Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air  As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room: Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA Like dis:    
    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
×
×
  • Create New...