Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was wondering what would happen if your timing was 30 degrees at idle instead of the 15 base degrees?

I had an issue where on cold start the ECU (rb20det r32) would pull timing back to maximum retard making the car horrible to drive in cold weather. Pete from nistune adjusted the cold start ignition trim map to make them all 20s instead of 5 or something to fix my horrible cold start retard that made it undriveable, anyway my idle ignition is 30 degrees now when cold and slowly lowers to 15 degrees.

Now I am chasing around a weird idle problem where sometimes my car idles great and other times terribly and I am just curious what too much ignition timing at idle would do? I don't believe it is the issue but I'd like to just make sure.

I plan to get my own license and tweak things in the near future but for now I want to rule out a mechanical problem.

Would this make it harder for the AAC/ECU to control the idle speed due to more ignition?

Could an admin merge these two topics?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/401709-weird-idle-problem/page__pid__6399112__st__40#entry6399112

Also how does the nissan ECU control idle speed, as I unplugged my AAC and there was no change in idle speed, is it done via ignition/injector pulse or a combination of all 3?

Thanks.

Idle speed if ONLY controlled by the AAC. It is of course AFFECTED by timing and mixture, but the only deliberate control is from AAC opening and closing. If you can pull yours without it affecting idle at all, then it is probably not working at all. And in fact, this would be one of the reasons for you having a crappy idle.

Idle speed if ONLY controlled by the AAC. It is of course AFFECTED by timing and mixture, but the only deliberate control is from AAC opening and closing. If you can pull yours without it affecting idle at all, then it is probably not working at all. And in fact, this would be one of the reasons for you having a crappy idle.

Could just mean that it's close to the desired idle speed. If you increase the commanded idle speed you should see the aac duty increase.

Good luck finding the cold start retard - I think it's a static number in some ecu's.

My AAC has been playing funny buggers too..has been cleaned..

If it's plugged in,(brown plug,purple is just ac isn't it?) it starts and idles fine, then soon as I drive it and stop, idle will bounce between 1500-2000...

Unplug it and idles (about 900rpm) and runs fine but of course now cold start is no good.. Have been just plugging it back in when cold to start it, which of course is annoying..

So quite obviously an AAC issue..not sure if it's mechanical or electric though..

Also not sure is it worth replacing AAC or just block it off and tune for cold start accordingly, or even considering just putting a switch inline to turn it off and on as needed..

I know it Probably doesn't help you much Rolls..just thought I'd throw it in here.. :)

Mine originally had the same symptoms as yours ARTZ, Jez was able to play with some idle settings to fix it.

Later when I changed cams it came back.

I now leave the AAC unplugged and touch the throttle as I turn the key. Once its on (even when cold) it runs fine. It is annoying though, the car should run like magic (never has). Ill get all that fixed when the new motor is finished.

If I try to start cold ( it has been very cold here lately) with it unplugged it won't idle..If I give it a heap of gas when I start it it may keep running..but starting at 3000rpm isn't a great idea...

It does run like magic if I plug it in and start it and it runs like magic when I unplug it and drive it..def something wrong with need another AAC to try, or just piss it off all together..

Good luck finding the cold start retard - I think it's a static number in some ecu's.

Oh Ive already found it, we zerod it all out and my car no longer drives like a sack of shit when cold. It is a 2d map from 0-2800 rpm, was pulling timing back to maximum retard when cold however I think now it is adding timing.

Idle speed is controlled by AAC only when hot.

Seems to be controlled with a combo of all 3 when cold (mine runs 35° timing at 20° C coolant for a 1100rpm idle).

For adjusting the idle my screw is about one full turn inside flush - something for you to go on. For cleaning it I found the Nulon upper engine cleaner works GREAT.

Edited by simpletool

Idle speed is controlled by AAC only when hot.

Seems to be controlled with a combo of all 3 when cold (mine runs 35° timing at 20° C coolant for a 1100rpm idle).

For adjusting the idle my screw is about one full turn inside flush - something for you to go on. For cleaning it I found the Nulon upper engine cleaner works GREAT.

R33 are a different story. They have delta rpm ignition control which will add/subtract timing to control the idle speed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
    • @Stringycheese  Have you only gone to the one blue slip workshop?  There will be a heap of them where ever you live, good odds that the next place you go to will pass the car.  Unfortunately (or fortunately?) every blue slip / engineering workshop will be different and will be happy passing or failing different things - despite working from the same set of rules. It's kinda like 2 lawyers arguing over a piece of legislation, each saying their interpretation is correct. Might seem strange that this happens when it comes to getting a modified car passed, but this is very much a thing. A big part of the game is finding an engineer / workshop that is on the same page as you.
    • Bah. I daily mine. ~60km per work day, 10-12 thousand km per year. What's the point of having a dirty old Datto and leaving it in the shed. It needs to be driven and enjoyed while the govco allows us to do so. It will only be a few years before we're forbidden to even start up internal combustion engines.
    • Judging by that spring perch and the normal looking spring on it - not a coilover. Well.... it is a coilover, just a stock format coilover, rather than what everyone calls a coilover.
    • Yes it is. We get stock from Nismo directly. I'm happy to take photos/video of it as proof before I ship it with timestamps or whathaveyou.
×
×
  • Create New...