Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So it worked for you too aye? Well i guess its good news we found the cure, but i dont understand why it needs that extra second. Atleast i wont have the dodgy start ups anymore. And i guess that aac valve didnt really do much in the end. Only way the aac valve would help the start up problem was if you increased the idle speed, which was getting rather annoying, hence why i returned it back to normal and done this little experiment ;p. Glad it worked your you as well!

picked the car up from paden , he adjusted something but was really strapped for time and had to get to work so didnt get to ask him what exactly.

he did also clean the aac valve ,and this morning it seemed to be fine , but will have to wait to see if the problem is solved

picked the car up from paden , he adjusted something but was really strapped for time and had to get to work so didnt get to ask him what exactly.

he did also clean the aac valve ,and this morning it seemed to be fine , but will have to wait to see if the problem is solved

Ohh really?? Niceee, might be the idle perhaps?? Did you notice it idling slightly higher? As long as the problems gone should be all sweet =)

Ohh really?? Niceee, might be the idle perhaps?? Did you notice it idling slightly higher? As long as the problems gone should be all sweet =)

it idles a but higher but started my car this morning and it did the same thing. So i held the key in the start position for a bit longer then cranking and it worked!

as suggested previously this is the fix , but what is the cause?

it idles a but higher but started my car this morning and it did the same thing. So i held the key in the start position for a bit longer then cranking and it worked!

as suggested previously this is the fix , but what is the cause?

In all honesty i have no clue what the cause is, at least we've sold the problem. Still would like to know why that extra 1 second determines whether the car starts like crap or not. Might ask the mechanic.

sorry mate you lost me, no clue what a moderator sticky is =p

sticky = A Topic or thread that is at the top of a section and marked as important .Stickys contain important information which each member should read.

Mod = Moderator = A person who moderates an Internet bulletin board or chat room

sticky = A Topic or thread that is at the top of a section and marked as important .Stickys contain important information which each member should read.

Mod = Moderator = A person who moderates an Internet bulletin board or chat room

Ohhh right my bad, will do!

ur not a mod man , its not something u can do

Ohhh right my bad, i get ya, sorry i dont use these forums much until recently. Thought the person who started the topic is in control of it.

Anyways for anyone who does visit this forum, we just turn the key for an extra second while starting up in the morning and it solves the start up problem, however we just dont know what the problem is although we found the cure.

  • 2 weeks later...

For some reason my car doesn't do it anymore.

Now it starts fine, little higher idle while cold, then goes to the normal 650-700rpm once warmed up, Then somtimes after stopping it idles high before dropping to the normal again.

Anyway cold starting problem is no more. fingers crossed

Just a note guys your TPS can cause this issue too. Tps giving a false reading when cold makes the af ratio go way rich causing idle and stalling problems. Test your tps with a multi meter. Its not an issue when the engine is warm as the warm engine can cope with the richer mixture.

Regards

Drews performance and mechanical repairs

Edited by vh45tt

this has been happening with mine as well, i have cleaned the AAC valve with little success. i am going to try the holding the key on longer tomorrow morning. With this action will it not hurt the starter tho? Thanks for this forum tho much help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...