Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So it worked for you too aye? Well i guess its good news we found the cure, but i dont understand why it needs that extra second. Atleast i wont have the dodgy start ups anymore. And i guess that aac valve didnt really do much in the end. Only way the aac valve would help the start up problem was if you increased the idle speed, which was getting rather annoying, hence why i returned it back to normal and done this little experiment ;p. Glad it worked your you as well!

picked the car up from paden , he adjusted something but was really strapped for time and had to get to work so didnt get to ask him what exactly.

he did also clean the aac valve ,and this morning it seemed to be fine , but will have to wait to see if the problem is solved

picked the car up from paden , he adjusted something but was really strapped for time and had to get to work so didnt get to ask him what exactly.

he did also clean the aac valve ,and this morning it seemed to be fine , but will have to wait to see if the problem is solved

Ohh really?? Niceee, might be the idle perhaps?? Did you notice it idling slightly higher? As long as the problems gone should be all sweet =)

Ohh really?? Niceee, might be the idle perhaps?? Did you notice it idling slightly higher? As long as the problems gone should be all sweet =)

it idles a but higher but started my car this morning and it did the same thing. So i held the key in the start position for a bit longer then cranking and it worked!

as suggested previously this is the fix , but what is the cause?

it idles a but higher but started my car this morning and it did the same thing. So i held the key in the start position for a bit longer then cranking and it worked!

as suggested previously this is the fix , but what is the cause?

In all honesty i have no clue what the cause is, at least we've sold the problem. Still would like to know why that extra 1 second determines whether the car starts like crap or not. Might ask the mechanic.

sorry mate you lost me, no clue what a moderator sticky is =p

sticky = A Topic or thread that is at the top of a section and marked as important .Stickys contain important information which each member should read.

Mod = Moderator = A person who moderates an Internet bulletin board or chat room

sticky = A Topic or thread that is at the top of a section and marked as important .Stickys contain important information which each member should read.

Mod = Moderator = A person who moderates an Internet bulletin board or chat room

Ohhh right my bad, will do!

ur not a mod man , its not something u can do

Ohhh right my bad, i get ya, sorry i dont use these forums much until recently. Thought the person who started the topic is in control of it.

Anyways for anyone who does visit this forum, we just turn the key for an extra second while starting up in the morning and it solves the start up problem, however we just dont know what the problem is although we found the cure.

  • 2 weeks later...

For some reason my car doesn't do it anymore.

Now it starts fine, little higher idle while cold, then goes to the normal 650-700rpm once warmed up, Then somtimes after stopping it idles high before dropping to the normal again.

Anyway cold starting problem is no more. fingers crossed

Just a note guys your TPS can cause this issue too. Tps giving a false reading when cold makes the af ratio go way rich causing idle and stalling problems. Test your tps with a multi meter. Its not an issue when the engine is warm as the warm engine can cope with the richer mixture.

Regards

Drews performance and mechanical repairs

Edited by vh45tt

this has been happening with mine as well, i have cleaned the AAC valve with little success. i am going to try the holding the key on longer tomorrow morning. With this action will it not hurt the starter tho? Thanks for this forum tho much help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...