Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just a quick question...

have this noise coming from my cam cover.

when its cold sounds a lil loud with revs around 1200/1300 rpm.

when i rev it goes away after 1600rpm and when idling at around 900/1000 can just hear it a little bit.

as it warms up it goes away at normal temp and goes away...

heres a video of it similar to mine or almost identical to be honest at the last 25 secs of video.

100% from the cam cover as i rember month ago tigtning those allen key bolts there and got extremly loud then loosend them and went away but its back again.

any ideas would be great or help on this as a few people have had this problem after reserching it but all different opinions...

Edited by R33ram
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404972-noise-from-cam-cover/
Share on other sites

Yea mine has been making this noise ever since the timing belt was done but i had a entire kit installed bearings belt everything changed professionally now it makes this noise on a cold start and goes away once it's warmed up...

What's the worst case scenario is it something that should be fixed asap or??

Edited by Lethal_aussie

Yea mine has been making this noise ever since the timing belt was done but i had a entire kit installed bearings belt everything changed professionally now it makes this noise on a cold start and goes away once it's warmed up...

What's the worst case scenario is it something that should be fixed asap or??

yours sounds like idler, if you are worried get the belt tension checked it could be too tight, if you installed a GATES belt and had it tension to stock spec it could be over tight.. worse case the idler gives way...

yea get it checked tommorow but hate taking it to mechanics as they are always like what noise lol

Is there any damage to be done or is it just a noise that gets annoying and no affect to engine besides that?

I did put a bit of wd40 or it got in there and became louder lol so most likley the cause is what you saying....

yours sounds like idler, if you are worried get the belt tension checked it could be too tight, if you installed a GATES belt and had it tension to stock spec it could be over tight.. worse case the idler gives way...

Yep was a gate's racing belt kit, if the idler gives away what will happen lol? Just not crank over or will it actually damage the engine on failure? If its just a noise i wont worry about it ... Was all done professionally so its all under warranty etc ill just blast the mechanic and they can cop the bill.

Edited by Lethal_aussie

Yep was a gate's racing belt kit, if the idler gives away what will happen lol? Just not crank over or will it actually damage the engine on failure? If its just a noise i wont worry about it ... Was all done professionally so its all under warranty etc ill just blast the mechanic and they can cop the bill.

Besides the noise it does on idle on a cold start ... would it get much worse before that would happen or would it just suddenly happen? I had the entire gates kit done doesn't that include new idler's etc?? paid 400 bucks be damned if it was just the belt they replaced... regardless mechanic would be at fault anyways since they installed the kit and did the timing etc??

Besides the noise it does on idle on a cold start ... would it get much worse before that would happen or would it just suddenly happen? I had the entire gates kit done doesn't that include new idler's etc?? paid 400 bucks be damned if it was just the belt they replaced... regardless mechanic would be at fault anyways since they installed the kit and did the timing etc??

Did you supply the mechanic the parts or did they suggest the parts and source the parts? Warranty might not stand if you supplied the parts...

I installed the kit myself did the tension up and it was sweet, no noise or anything for a good year, recently i had to take the belt of and when i started the car it made that exact noise but much louder, i loosened the tensioner off and the noise has gone, im not worried that the belt will slip or jump and it was a Cu*t to even get off and back on again.

Next time i will just buy genuine Nissan belt as their is nothing is wrong with them..

Did you supply the mechanic the parts or did they suggest the parts and source the parts? Warranty might not stand if you supplied the parts...

I installed the kit myself did the tension up and it was sweet, no noise or anything for a good year, recently i had to take the belt of and when i started the car it made that exact noise but much louder, i loosened the tensioner off and the noise has gone, im not worried that the belt will slip or jump and it was a Cu*t to even get off and back on again.

Next time i will just buy genuine Nissan belt as their is nothing is wrong with them..

Yea im thinking that to should of got nissan ... im thinking its kinda overkill for street use gates... yea they sourced and recommended the gates timing belt kit they go through justjap i think.. as it was stronger etc

I always pay for a professional to install and source everything as im mechanically stupid in most area's lol... short of a oil change etc

Edited by Lethal_aussie
  • 4 weeks later...

yours sounds like idler, if you are worried get the belt tension checked it could be too tight, if you installed a GATES belt and had it tension to stock spec it could be over tight.. worse case the idler gives way...

*Just a update* on this guys, Had it checked again and the noise was the Timing belt which was actually loose.. and needed to be re-tensioned so all good now, cheer's :)

Hmmm

That is odd, how can the belt be loose?

I have exactly the same noise as you had, belt done months ago ..

Apparently the original mechanic that worked on my car was meant to re-tension the belt when i had the gates kit installed to begin with and didn't... The main mechanic "owner" said he had to redo the kit and tighten it as it was loose which is what was making the noise..

This is what i was told..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...