Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seriously though, the laws are the laws. If she's able to drive them on the new laws, what's stopping her? Why does it matter if others are doing it? (which I'm absolutely certain there are dozens at least in brisbane)

I would suggest she waits and saves up her money so she can get one when she comes out of her P's and then will have some cash to chuck some mods on it. The issue of just doing it is that you will have NO insurance, not even CTP, and you can be up for serious amounts of money.

If you hold a P1 or P2 licence you may be eligible for a certificate of exemption to enable you to drive a high-powered vehicle.

You may apply for a certificate of exemption if the vehicle you wish to drive meets all of the following:

  • has a turbocharged or supercharged engine that is not diesel powered
  • has a power-to-weight ratio of not more than 125kW/t
  • does not have any other features of a high-powered vehicle as outlined below.
  • an engine that has a power output of more than 210kW as per the manufacturer's specification
  • a modified engine that must be approved under section 13

The power-to-weight ratio means the ratio (expressed in kilowatts per tonne) calculated by dividing the car’s maximum engine power in kilowatts by the kerb weight and multiplying the product of the division by 1000. For example, the power to weight ratio of a vehicle that has a maximum engine power of 195kW and a kerb weight of 1667kg would be calculated as follows: (195÷1667) × 1000 = 117kW/tonne

Has anyone tryed this on here and have any info on how they went about it?

Edited by Na boy

If you hold a P1 or P2 licence you may be eligible for a certificate of exemption to enable you to drive a high-powered vehicle.

You may apply for a certificate of exemption if the vehicle you wish to drive meets all of the following:

^This,

I would apply for the exemption first as the way it is written does not imply or state that you can drive one of the below vehicles but that you may apply for an exemption to do so.

I have seen a few threads on boost about it, its seems to be a bit if stuffing round. The 33 GTST is 128.6 kW/T and the 32 is 123 kW/T (just by some quick stats on the net). Give it a try mate but there must be a reason you don't see many P platers driving turbos on this exemption.

Just wait. I mean why bother now when you can go nuts in 8 months and get whatever you want without having to go through all the crap

The laws are there for a reason. Not just to piss people off

It would be advisable to wait the 8 months. Insurance will rip you a new one and it will give you more time to suss out the market. Most decent sports cars are less than 1.5t which means that you'd only have a vehicle that produces less than 187.5kw...

hey, R32's only produce less than 187kw!

Yes, R32's are P plate legal under the law changes, and there are P platers driving around on them. For the low powered exemptions you no longer need a reason, unlike the work exemptions etc from before.

So, if she really, really likes r32's, just buy one. if she'd rather a r33 or a silvia or something else over the limit, the choice is obvious, wait 8 months because she can't legally drive it yet.

edit: i see that you already own a r32. she could apply for an exemption and drive that, for example, providing it isn't modified to some extent...

i see that you already own a r32. she could apply for an exemption and drive that, for example, providing it isn't modified to some extent...

Yer had my 32 about 7 years now, but its been moded most the time it runs a t70 lol

Just so you guys know im not trying to get my red p plate 17 year old misses into a skyline she's 22 and been driving my car for years.

We are only trying this because her magna is on its last legs and i dont know if it will hold on for 8 months.

Well, like i said, any car with less power to weight than 125, and less than 210kw total qualifies. So r33's are not possible. R32's are. Silvia's aren't. Other cars? i don't know, you probably need to go find otu their specs and calculate the ratio on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...