Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I had a look through about 15 pages of the thread but didn't see one running 19" rims which is why i posted on here. Does anyone know anyone running 19's on a r32??? There was a lot good info on there though.

255/35/18

265's would be better but they will scrub if you havent rolled your gaurds

I run 18 x 9.5 and 18 x 9 both + 20 offset with 265/35/18 on my 32r and they rub on the front guard liner on suspension compression. Probably worse when lock is applied too. They only catch the guard by a poofteenth and have worn some material off the moulding around the screws that fixt the liner on. But rub they do. Rears are fine but only just. Camber and ride height wil make a difference to the equation. It must vary from car to car as I've heard too many times that 18 x 10 +20 fit no worries but you can see my experience doesn't line up with this. My advice is at these sizes you are in the 'will just fit / are slightly too large' zone so proceed with caution and trial fit if possible. From a looks perspective (again from my point of view) these rims and tyre specs are the best. In my opinion you should not go past 18s.....

Some food for thought re wheel “fit”

It’s very difficult to generalise whether “Diameter x Width + offset” will “fit” a particular car. Consider this:

  1. Most cars have different geometry settings (e.g. aftermarket arms, bushes etc) which will affect camber, caster, toe etc. a change in camber settings between one car and another may cause a ‘fitting’ wheel to foul
  2. Most cars have different ride heights (running stock/aftermarket/etc coilovers) which will affect geometry and clearance to the guard when turning (front)
  3. Some people are running different brake set ups, with aftermarket mounting alloy bells, that may be different thickness than the original cast iron one piece rotors. So a thicker rotor bell will increase track slightly, which may make a ‘fitting’ wheel on one car foul another
  4. Obviously spacers make a difference
  5. Obviously different size tyres will give different clearances also

There’s probably more stuff I’m not remembering.

For what it’s worth, the simple question of “will these wheels fit my GTST/GTR/etc” really needs an answer of:

  • what are the current geometry settings
  • what brake setup are you running and are the hats thicker/thinner than the oem
  • are you running spacers etc

And lastly, I’m running 18x9.5 + 15s with 255/35/18 Michelin PS2s on my R32 GTR. They are the exact CE28 rims that “DarrenJC” has on his black 32 v-spec above. It has a/m front and rear brakes that I think are a little thicker than OEM (prob 3-4mm) so the effective track is wider. My wheels are definitely sitting further out that his image. My R34GTR wheels sat about where his CE28s sit.

Front end:

a/m front arms with about 2.5deg neg camber and max castor. Now lock is destroying my guard liners so will wind out caster and wing on some more static camber.

Rear end:

a/m arms running about 0.5deg neg camber. When static compressed the tyre has about 3mm clearance to the outer guard (which in not rolled). Will wind on a touch more camber for safety.

Hope that helps.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey mate,

I own a 32 GTR and recently upgraded to 18X10 +20 TE37s with 265/35/18s all round, they sit perfectly flush with the fender.. there is only about 15mm clearance at the rear... i was at first concerned it may make contact, as sinista32 mentioned

265's would be better but they will scrub if you havent rolled your gaurds

however the tyres have not made contact once due to the stiffness of my coilovers. It hasn't been tracked, however there are some country mountain roads nearish to where i live that i have frequented and put hard strain on the springs with still no contact.

oh and with good quality semi slicks the handling is amazing :)

Try a slow full lock in a car park. That's where mine scrubbed on the front.

Rolled the front and rear gaurds.

Federal RSR's are larger than other tyre manufacturers by about 10%. That's what I had.

My suspension is Bilstein coilovers with Eiback springs.

Can anyone tell me what size i should run for my R32 GTR... I've got BBS RS wheels and im about to rebuild them to a 17x9.5 +14 All round...

I wanted to go 265/40/17 all round but someone said it will look like a baloon and overhang like stupidly.... Idno if thats true i wudda thought it wud be flush as with the rim... but i could be wrong... can anyone help me out with pics and stuff??

RIMTUCK mainly has 18 inch wheels so its a totally diff ball game.

So 18x10 + 20 is no problems on a bnr32??

What tyres are people running 245's or 255's?

I will be running wheels this size and want to bolt on with no modifications.....

255/35/18

265's would be better but they will scrub if you havent rolled your gaurds

265 are fine on that size rim, i have 265 on my 18x10 +20 on my 32 GTR

gtr3_zpsb367405f.jpg

gtr4_zps9985bb4c.jpg

Anyone to help me for 17s ... from what i wrote above.

18s is a diff story.

18s is not a different story... Your comparing widths here. Whizzn gave a photo of how 265s look on a 10 inch rim, use the photos as a guide for your 9.5" rims

This car has 265 on 18x9.5 +18

modp_1103_01_o+1991_nissan_skyline_gt-r+front_view.jpg

^ this is the best fit for an r32 GTR that i have seen and I have myself ^

18 x 9.5 +12 LMGT4's

although I went down to 255's as my RSR 265's (265x35xR18) scrubbed on low speed full lock, inside gaurd liner, and my gaurds were rolled.

-> RSR 265's are wider than other 265's - fact.

I run Bilsteins with Eibach springs. Not set to rock hard but not soft either.

18s is not a different story... Your comparing widths here. Whizzn gave a photo of how 265s look on a 10 inch rim, use the photos as a guide for your 9.5" rims

This car has 265 on 18x9.5 +18

modp_1103_01_o+1991_nissan_skyline_gt-r+front_view.jpg

okay awesome... man honestly thats what i always thought but someone that was running 10.5 all round with a 255 said my 9.5 on a 17inch wheel with 265 will be like a baloon... f**k what he says man the picture u posted is perfect and exactly what i want.

thanks for the help

  • 1 month later...

today i fitted my brand new enkei 18x9.5+12 with new advan 245/45/18, and on the left front wheel it scrapes with the rear of the arch when turning slowely ? am I going to have to get new tyres with a smaller profile??

Edited by geetea-are

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...