Jump to content
SAU Community

Catch Can Issues, Urgent Help Requested!

Spooger

By Spooger,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, so I got myself a gtst and joined the team. The engine has had a bit of work done to it. It's running a Garrett M24 and I have some serious pressure issues with the catch can. I have asked a few local mechanics and have gotten different responses.

From - its rooted to its fine it's just not tuned correctly.

One guy basically screamed at me firmly telling me "no engine should have blow by" yet my mate who is the PDM at Toyota/Nissan told me even brand new cars do it which even is backed up on what I have read online. He further went on to show me his turbo hilux, that thing chugged like a steam train from the oil filler. He placed the oil cap over the top and the damn thing started dancing over the rocket cover.

The car doesn't blow any smoke except occasionally a very brief puff when changing gears (first drive of day) there was water in the oil but minimal amounts. I have confirmation the car has only done 1000km in the last 18 months. My mate from Toyota said that he would expect a car sitting that long to have that amount of water in it anyway (condensation) considering the doozy of the problem it has. I had a compression test done and it's a fairly even 120 across the board. However when the car is kicked in the guts oil splatters out of the catch can. I have been told - rebuild it! Suspected ring lans. However when I decided to start pulling the engine out this weekend we found the boost controller had a blown fuse and here is where I'd LOVE the advice, seems like the catch can system is plumbed wrong. (please remember I am a complete noob with these) from what we are assuming, is the Pcv tube isn't connected to the catch can rather it is plumbed back into the boost side of the intake. I will post pics soon as I can.

We are under the assumption that the Pcv is trying to boost 20psi through the top end of the engine and going straight into the tubes that run from the rocket cover into the catch can and blasting it out the filter on the top. When the valve is connected the filter on the catch can blows bubbles when idling, yet when u disconnect it, it stop. Any help much appreciated!!

f3a2e4f7.jpg

c3880b75.jpg

Top tube goes to pcv shown on first pic

80d7a892.jpg

8d9b7530.jpg

Edited by Spooger
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If the car is new to you change oil and filter. Take it for a long drive so that everything comes up to full temp. get a compression test and leak down test. Go from there. Good engines can "breathe" quite a bit but broken ring lands are also common - test don't guess and don't pull the engine out unless you have to.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

No, no, no, no, no.

Starting at the PCV fitting, you should have:

PCV to intake rocker cover (as per factory fittings)

Intake rocker cover to exhaust rocker cover (as per factory fittings)

exhaust rocker cover to catch can

catch can to intake side of turbo.

Ditch the stupid filter on the can (and plug the hole).

So basically, the catch can replaces the hose that goes from the exhaust rocker cover down to the intake of the turbo. And the whole system remains sealed and does not vent to atmosphere. And you don't have problems with EPA.

ahhbee Community Regular

ahhbee

Posted
Posted

yea the rocker cover lines are the two ontop of your engine. im not gunna enter into the atmo/plumb back catch can argument but i can also see in the second pic that your turbo intake pipe has a bung so that you could plumb it back in if you wanted. that looks like a lot of oil on the catch can, i would definantly do a leak down test, my guess being that you have a damaged ring or ring land

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks ahhbee. Yeah I've been told by a few ppl ring lands. I have only driven the car about 30km since owning it, it's done about 1000km in 18 months, I have my dear little fingers crossed its just because it's plumbed wrong and been sitting so long.

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah it's a fair bit of oil that is sprayed out. The catch can is full after 30km. I did give it a few boosts during that period (I know prob a bad idea but I couldn't resist :-P) it also used about 60% of the 4 liters I put into it (after draining it)

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

From the looks of that you have more issues than a catch can plumbed wrong.

Boost should not go past the PVC because under positive pressure it's closed.

Forget the service just warm it up and comp test it if it's low then leak down test it.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Ok no problem. What is considered low? It's got 120,000km on it. Prob had a semi rough life too (drift car)

The actual figure is not so important - you are looking for one or two cylinders with more than say 5% less compression than the rest. e.g. mine range from 130 psi to 135 psi which is low but ok. I got a leakdown test and they were all fine.
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Cut the hose and jam a bolt in there. Temp fix.

Its a shame im not in NZ, i have a plug that replaces the valve itself sitting in the center console of my R33 i dont use anymore. Id have sent it to you otherwise.

Just go into a metal shop with the rubber seal and ask them to make a bung to fit it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...