Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, just wanted some people feedback on something, i have a rb20, and are undecided on what turbo to get? Thinking either a hks2530, 2535, or a garret 2860, i heard these are pretty much the same type, or i was thinking of getting a rb25 turbo high flowed, im chassing about the 230kw mark but want it to start making boost early, ill have all the supporting mods, just dunno weather the rb25 turbo will be laggy, hears they can be once there highflowed.

If anyone can give me some advice, or if they have done this, much appreciated guys

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405778-high-flow-rb25-turbo-or-hks/
Share on other sites

Have you checked out the Hypergear thread? He does highflows and brand new bolt on turbo's, cannot recommend his work enough. If you can get hold of an HKS turbo cheap enough, should get the job done. Just not sure whether or not it will bolt onto your stock exhaust manifold, inlet/outlet pipes, or dump pipe.

Yer i have seen his website amd read a few things on here aswell? Have u used hos stuff before? Have u got a high flowed turbo that he did? Whats it go like? Spool time and stuff? Yer the hks are really hard to find and usually expensive aswell for a 2nd one. Yer the hks are a 6 bolt housing im pretty sure and ive got a after market dump pipe to fit any 6 bolt rear housing turbo anyway just gotta get the turbo!

Yeah i've got one of his ATR43G3's. 375rwhp on 21-20psi. Kicks in at 4200rpm so it is kind of laggy, but only compared to the measly little plastic/ceramic stock turbo :P

If i were after 230rwkw i would be finding a blown rb25 turbo and getting it highflowed, completely bolt-on, and its the cheaper option.

Why would the highflowed rb25 turbo be laggy? Coz stock would start making boost pretty early?

Its a hard decision i dunno what to get the hks are really expensive, and getting a rb25 high flowed is kinda like a new turbo, the main thing i dont want it to be laggy! Does anyone know much about when they say .63 or something? Is that ment to have something to do with the rear housing?

Why would the highflowed rb25 turbo be laggy? Coz stock would start making boost pretty early?

Its a hard decision i dunno what to get the hks are really expensive, and getting a rb25 high flowed is kinda like a new turbo, the main thing i dont want it to be laggy! Does anyone know much about when they say .63 or something? Is that ment to have something to do with the rear housing?

The RB25 housing is already larger, hi-flowing will further increase the size. Hence they are 250-290rwkw in hi-flow form... But they always nose over.

The A/R is just a relative size. It varies depending on the turbo and wheels in question... And how much meat is removed during hi-flowing

JordansR32, I just got one of the Hypergear RB25 hiflows last week. It's good, a brand new CHRA fitted to old housings, so really a new turbo. Not running a huge amount of boost through it as I'm on stock ecu, definitely tons more top end though. Not alot of instant response though IMO. From what I have read the HKS GT-RS and Trust TD05H 18G are great punchy turbos for the low 200kw mark? There's a Trust TD05H 18G bolt-on kit on ebay for sale at moment too for $1500. Or *product plug :)* I have my old R33 stock turbo for sale cheap suitable for rebuild, and also an R34 OP6 if you're chasing a bit more from the highflow.

Yer i think the hks garrett can handle more power and boost, i want to run about 20psi on high boost with a nistune and all the support mods, still tossing up my opions, ill have a look at the dyno results and go from there i think

Get the Hypergears SS1PU. That is a very responsive turbo with a super strong punch.

Wait. just noticed OP ask for a Rb20det turbo lol. For that power check out their high flows and the smaller SS1.

Edited by petero'nell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...