Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, just wanted some people feedback on something, i have a rb20, and are undecided on what turbo to get? Thinking either a hks2530, 2535, or a garret 2860, i heard these are pretty much the same type, or i was thinking of getting a rb25 turbo high flowed, im chassing about the 230kw mark but want it to start making boost early, ill have all the supporting mods, just dunno weather the rb25 turbo will be laggy, hears they can be once there highflowed.

If anyone can give me some advice, or if they have done this, much appreciated guys

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405778-high-flow-rb25-turbo-or-hks/
Share on other sites

Have you checked out the Hypergear thread? He does highflows and brand new bolt on turbo's, cannot recommend his work enough. If you can get hold of an HKS turbo cheap enough, should get the job done. Just not sure whether or not it will bolt onto your stock exhaust manifold, inlet/outlet pipes, or dump pipe.

Yer i have seen his website amd read a few things on here aswell? Have u used hos stuff before? Have u got a high flowed turbo that he did? Whats it go like? Spool time and stuff? Yer the hks are really hard to find and usually expensive aswell for a 2nd one. Yer the hks are a 6 bolt housing im pretty sure and ive got a after market dump pipe to fit any 6 bolt rear housing turbo anyway just gotta get the turbo!

Yeah i've got one of his ATR43G3's. 375rwhp on 21-20psi. Kicks in at 4200rpm so it is kind of laggy, but only compared to the measly little plastic/ceramic stock turbo :P

If i were after 230rwkw i would be finding a blown rb25 turbo and getting it highflowed, completely bolt-on, and its the cheaper option.

Why would the highflowed rb25 turbo be laggy? Coz stock would start making boost pretty early?

Its a hard decision i dunno what to get the hks are really expensive, and getting a rb25 high flowed is kinda like a new turbo, the main thing i dont want it to be laggy! Does anyone know much about when they say .63 or something? Is that ment to have something to do with the rear housing?

Why would the highflowed rb25 turbo be laggy? Coz stock would start making boost pretty early?

Its a hard decision i dunno what to get the hks are really expensive, and getting a rb25 high flowed is kinda like a new turbo, the main thing i dont want it to be laggy! Does anyone know much about when they say .63 or something? Is that ment to have something to do with the rear housing?

The RB25 housing is already larger, hi-flowing will further increase the size. Hence they are 250-290rwkw in hi-flow form... But they always nose over.

The A/R is just a relative size. It varies depending on the turbo and wheels in question... And how much meat is removed during hi-flowing

JordansR32, I just got one of the Hypergear RB25 hiflows last week. It's good, a brand new CHRA fitted to old housings, so really a new turbo. Not running a huge amount of boost through it as I'm on stock ecu, definitely tons more top end though. Not alot of instant response though IMO. From what I have read the HKS GT-RS and Trust TD05H 18G are great punchy turbos for the low 200kw mark? There's a Trust TD05H 18G bolt-on kit on ebay for sale at moment too for $1500. Or *product plug :)* I have my old R33 stock turbo for sale cheap suitable for rebuild, and also an R34 OP6 if you're chasing a bit more from the highflow.

Yer i think the hks garrett can handle more power and boost, i want to run about 20psi on high boost with a nistune and all the support mods, still tossing up my opions, ill have a look at the dyno results and go from there i think

Get the Hypergears SS1PU. That is a very responsive turbo with a super strong punch.

Wait. just noticed OP ask for a Rb20det turbo lol. For that power check out their high flows and the smaller SS1.

Edited by petero'nell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...