Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have been doing as much reading as i can regarding how to get 350rwkw out of my R33 GTR.

At the moment all it has from the previous owner is a exhaust and some HKS Pods. Everything else is stock, including the turbo's.

I have done some research and have a bit of a parts list put together by Kudo's, but just wondering what you fellas think...The car is going to be my daily driver.

Garrett GT2860R-5s

Turbo Install Kit (all required gaskets & studs...)

Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit

A'PEXi Power FC D-Jetro

Greddy Suction Kit To Suit AFM Less Set-Up OR HKS AFM Replacement Bodies (To reuse factory intake set-up)

HKS EVC 5 Electronic Boost Controller

Walbro 400ltr/hr Intake Fump Pump OR Nismo Fuel Pump (Direct Replacement For Factory Pump, No Modifications Required)

Power Enterprise 700cc Fuel Injector Set, Including Full Genuine Nissan Seal Kit

Greddy Fuel Rail To Suit Above Injectors (anything above 550cc are 11mm and don't suit the factory rail)

Tomei Type-L Fuel Pressure Regulator

Do you think its nessasry to go MAP's vs Z32 AFM's?

After i install everything, will i even be able to drive to the tuner? I think i remember reading that the D-Jetro doesn't have a base tune installed so the car won't run?

Is it hard to install the MAP Sensors?

It is a pretty pricey build, anywhere where you fellas think i could save a few pennies? Honestly I am looking for the best performance for the dollar. What ever gives me best bang for buck, that is what i want to go for!

Input/comments/feedback much appreciated by all

Edited by Booki
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

have a look at the rb26 dyno thread,

but..... get ID 1000 cc injectors with adapters will fit std rail. dont need new fuel rail, Dont need pressure reg, z32 AFM is fine.... No mapless not needed.

-5's with 20 psi or so will give you 350...But may aswell aim for 400 :)

You after top end power, or response and a bit less top end?

Looking for more response and a bit less top end, it is my daily after all.

Didn't know you could get adapters to fit the std rail, any draw backs on not using a aftermarket fuel rail?

Main reason why i wondered about the Z32 vs MAP is because you can normally pickup Z32's and Power FC's used.

False economy considering secondhand Z32s. They might work, but there's always a good chance that someone is unloading them because they were faulty in some way. Not worth the pain. Buy new, genuine from someone you can trust (and that's unlikely to be someone on eBay).

Looking for more response and a bit less top end, it is my daily after all.

Didn't know you could get adapters to fit the std rail, any draw backs on not using a aftermarket fuel rail?

Main reason why i wondered about the Z32 vs MAP is because you can normally pickup Z32's and Power FC's used.

As per the infomation and results on here, Then i would say wrong turbo choice, Go for the -9s instead.

Although -

HKS EVC 5 Electronic Boost Controller

Might be known as one of the boost controllers with all its features etc, they CAN be a pain in the a$$ as mine is nothing but trouble....

I believe the -5's are capable of more power (if the need arises) and have similar response to stock turbo's if not better?

Yes, capable of more power - no, most definitely laggier.

Constantly gets err100 under full boost when its bolted up... When it swings free it works 9 times out of 10... Its probably a rare case but google search shows similar complaints out there but NO fix seems to exist that i can see...

Any reason why you would recommend the -9 instead of the -5?

I believe the -5's are capable of more power (if the need arises) and have similar response to stock turbo's if not better?

-5 are like hks 2530 and -9 like hks gtss, both more lag then stock, by the sounds of it you want -7/34n1 turbos

theres a good write up in someones sig (forget who) that has the turbos choice for the power wanted.

-9s wont make 350, But close enough and -7s will make 320 odd.

-5 although such a popular turbos are much better with a stoked motor, Or a track car where you can wind the boost up and really let them open up.

As your said yours is a daily, -5s would be usless below 4500 rpm, -9s would be biggest id go. And -7s would be the best choice for a daily street gtr.

The aboive pretty much sums it up, Have a search in my name for the many threads i made about -5 vs -9 ect ect.

Edited by sydking

Although -

HKS EVC 5 Electronic Boost Controller

Might be known as one of the boost controllers with all its features etc, they CAN be a pain in the a$$ as mine is nothing but trouble....

get an apexi avc-r , mine has never had trouble, is easy to work and has alot of adjustability

Still trying to decide if i want -5 or -9 turbo's.

How is the car revving before you reach full boost?

Also, How do you go about fitting bigger injectors in the stock fuel rail? or am i better off getting a bigger fuel rail? (where do i buy the adapters?)

Edited by Booki

Still trying to decide if i want -5 or -9 turbo's.

How is the car revving before you reach full boost?

Also, How do you go about fitting bigger injectors in the stock fuel rail? or am i better off getting a bigger fuel rail? (where do i buy the adapters?)

You said you car was a daily and wanted resposne, Unless you have a stroker kit then -9s are your only choice that matches your needs

As for injectors, Tuff car parts will do a set of adapters to suit std rail for about $50 a set.

Grab some Id 1000cc from tuspeed.com, Great service and good price at $745 odd

Edited by sydking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...