Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, wondering if anyone can help me out. I'm purchasing a set of r34 gtt 3 level adjustable bilsteins with lowered king springs to fit into my r33 gtr. I'm not a boy racer or anything, just want something lower and a little firmer. From my research the rears are pretty much identical, but there seems to be a difference in the length of the fronts. I do not want my car on a slant, so I'm hoping it's only a small difference so I can adjust them accordingly.

Does anyone know the difference in length at all?

Seems to be a bit of info on fitting r33 gtr springs into r34 gtt's but not the other way around. Don't know why though as the stock spring in my gtr are s***!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406577-r34-gtt-bilsteins-in-an-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

That's because it works OK to put the shorter GTR struts into the 2WD car, but the taller struts are too tall for the 4WD chassis. It's all about which part of the stroke the damper is in, when at running height. And of course the strong possibilty that the runnign height will be too high as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...