Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With all the ecus these days available running MAP...Is there benefits to still running AFMs...cause if there is I dont see them...MAP seems like a much more affordable and just as reliable option..as far as I know most new turbo cars run MAP as well now...

Why would people still be suggesting upgraded AFMS when the cost of them can be better put towards a better quality ECU..

Anyway I dont know much about these things so....Learn me something .......... :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/
Share on other sites

Hardly old school vs new school - both have been around for a very long time. It's nothing new at all.

http://www.skylinesa...af-vs-map-ecus/

http://www.skylinesa...ors-vs-afm-ecu/

Just some of the many threads you can find by hitting the search button (there are PLENTY).

PFC/Nistune + AFM is cheaper than (insert brand) ECU + MAP sensor in almost every instance, hence bang for buck it's what people go with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480477
Share on other sites

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

but lets put it a different way...If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480528
Share on other sites

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480535
Share on other sites

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

but lets put it a different way...If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though, MAFs aren't the most reliable sensors and i would be inclined to go with MAP for the added reliablity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480539
Share on other sites

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

most gtr ones go for around that, bought mine for $750 with a hand controller

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480543
Share on other sites

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

the power slide (pun intented) is fun but an expensive process

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480546
Share on other sites

But then 2 afms

$750 + $700

$1450 - still cheaper by what, $400 or so? :)

Anyway this sums it up perfectly:

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though.

I took out the reliability comment about MAF's because lets face it - 10 years before new ones play up really, usually 15 years.

What most people do is purchase 2nd hand AFM's. 6 months later they have issues, it comes as no surprise at all.

MAP sensors are like AFM, just a sensor. So after 10-15 years they'd probably need replacement like all other things.

If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Motec + every sensor under the sun.

See you later $8000++

Silly question really. No-one has an endless budget for 99% of the applications in question on this forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480586
Share on other sites

yes i know most dont have an endless budget but if there is only a small difference like a couple of hundred its hardly a concern in the big scheme of things..

also after your 1450, if you still need a boost controller theres another 3-500$ gone...where alot of the newer ones have all these features inbuilt

AFM compensates for air temp as i said before.

AFM's can max out and/or fail but so can Map sensors

yes but we already solved this for less than 50$ with an IAT sensor...

what are the signs of a failing map sensor...bit of a worry considering mines inbuilt to the ecu...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480607
Share on other sites

I must admitt that compared to my old PFC, my Link G4 feels very good on light throttle applications as well as throttle response.. Dunno if that's placebo effect but I'm very happy with the link...

Got mine for around 1700 from memory with map sensor.

I also like the fact that if I blow off a pipe the car can still get me home without the cough and splutter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480614
Share on other sites

yes i know most dont have an endless budget but if there is only a small difference like a couple of hundred its hardly a concern in the big scheme of things..

also after your 1450, if you still need a boost controller theres another 3-500$ gone...where alot of the newer ones have all these features inbuilt

The feature - yes. The PFC also has that feature.

The physical solenoid - no.

You have to buy it in a lot of cases further adding to the costs in both cases (PFC and non-PFC). So i don't see how that's relevant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480634
Share on other sites

MAC Solenoid cost me 50$

IAT cost me 40$

So in a nutshell, there really is no difference/benefits between running either MAF or MAP on your average 'line..other than maybe saving a few bucks

So what about big HP applications then, what are they running ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...