Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i purchased a low profile 12 inch thermo fan off ebay, to make space for my intercooler. It looks "ok".... nothing to special. the mounting instructions are what gets me, ive never seen any thing like it.

Basically they give you four long flexible "nylon bolts" they call it.... and tell you to leaver your radiator fins open with a screw driver and push these long nylon bolts directly through the radiator fins. and slip this plastic nut over the back of it to hold it in place. lol.... i dunno about you guys but it all sounds a bit suspect? any one heard of such a thing?

post-34650-0-14951500-1345110194_thumb.jpg

post-34650-0-83115500-1345110209_thumb.jpg

Edited by loymclure
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407162-low-profile-12-inch-thermo-fan/
Share on other sites

Hey Clint, use them if you want, but you don't have to.

I think I read you bought the HDI intercooler kit. It comes with brackets to fit the fan to the stock mounting points.

See what works for you!

cheers,

I was just stressed about how strong they would be last thing i want is for them to snap and then the fan ends up as some new undiscribed part of my susspension .

as for the thickness its about 60 mm but its kinda cone shappedwith the thickest part right in the middle of the dc fan motor (@ 60mm) and the outer edge being the thinest (@ 40mm) iether way im sure it will work as it will sit flush with the radiator. bigkevracer thanks mate ill sus those brackets out as well I think.

cheers,

I was just stressed about how strong they would be last thing i want is for them to snap and then the fan ends up as some new undiscribed part of my susspension .

as for the thickness its about 60 mm but its kinda cone shappedwith the thickest part right in the middle of the dc fan motor (@ 60mm) and the outer edge being the thinest (@ 40mm) iether way im sure it will work as it will sit flush with the radiator. bigkevracer thanks mate ill sus those brackets out as well I think.

lol yeah thats what i thought i was doing?

Edited by loymclure
  • 10 months later...

Sorry to bump an old thread but i have just ordered a HDI Intercooler and remembered seeing somewhere a link to thermo fans people used for the job.

From memory it was

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Performance-Chrome-12inch-Thermo-Fan-Electric-Fan-120watt-12volt-12v-/261041810142?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc74deade&_uhb=1

I assume any universal 12 inch will do the job but if people had one they preferred over another drop me a PM pls.

Cheers for any advice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...