Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi mate, 9.5 CR is fine just can't run big boost, it's mostly in the tune anyway, if you have a united servo down there they will have premium 100 soon if not already, the servo around the corner from me said they are all getting it weather that's true or not is a different story, and maybe even E85

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6497288
Share on other sites

30psi with 9.3 CR, got a link I would be interested to see that one and what mods he has done, I know there is a guy on here with a built 2.6 engine with 9.3 running a little over 20 psi on 98, but then your dymanic comp ratio would change the amount of boost your can run also, with big cams creating lots of overlap and reducing the effective stroke will reduce the DCR

so you might have 9.3 static comp ratio but then have big overlap and reduce the DCR to ( and this is just a guess for discussion sake ) 7.5-1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6497446
Share on other sites

here is link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395232-394kw-1994-r33-gtst-act/ he said he has run up to 30 psi

yes i dynamic CR is less with big cams ( every cam changes it)

was thinking of running camtech 268 dur ,9mm lift in (with VCT) and 272dur 10.4mm lift

and yes for my HD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6497498
Share on other sites

Depends on so many different factors. It's easy to say "He did this with this turbo, pistons etc." and it was OK...doesn't mean YOUR build will be EXACTLY the same and also be fine.

E.g. My RB25/30DET, Static 9:1 CR (there abouts), 256/8.5mm Tomei Cams, 18PSI @3500-4000RPM. Pretty much copied Cubes' RB30 build. However, the thing wanted to ping its head off on BP98. More so than normal and definately not like Cubes' RB30.

Chased our tails (tuner and I) for a little while...Eventually, chucked some more fuel into it, pulled some timing and it was all good. Sacrificed a small amount of power for some reliability. However, the thing is definately more sensitive to knocking than the run of the mill RB.

If it were me, I'd be going E85 just for the sake of it.

Is it going to be a build for a road or track car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6498511
Share on other sites

Hmmm from an initial glance, there isnt that many servos (is there any???) that run E85 around your area anyway! Could always buy it by the barrel since the car isn't going to be a "daily" driver.

Worst case scenario, tune for 98 and see what you can get away with. If you're having issues with the thing knocking and you're not happy with the power/torque, chuck the juice at it!

If it were me, depending on your turbo choice, I'd be keeping it to 9:1 on 98...

Edited by R32Abuser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6498707
Share on other sites

Hmmm from an initial glance, there isnt that many servos (is there any???) that run E85 around your area anyway! Could always buy it by the barrel since the car isn't going to be a "daily" driver.

Worst case scenario, tune for 98 and see what you can get away with. If you're having issues with the thing knocking and you're not happy with the power/torque, chuck the juice at it!

If it were me, depending on your turbo choice, I'd be keeping it to 9:1 on 98...

smaller turbo more cr ?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6501840
Share on other sites

Im not sure what you're trying to ask in the above post...

As a very general statement: The smaller turbo you run, the higher the EGT's will be and thus increase the sensitivity of the setup to knocking (apples with apples of course!). Run a higher Static/dynamic CR and you will only make the problem worse.

Edited by R32Abuser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6508065
Share on other sites

Im not sure what you're trying to ask in the above post...

As a very general statement: The smaller turbo you run, the higher the EGT's will be and thus increase the sensitivity of the setup to knocking (apples with apples of course!). Run a higher Static/dynamic CR and you will only make the problem worse.

I mean when the turbo size gets bigger the cr should digress?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6514627
Share on other sites

Now I'm confused...

The turbo you use won't change your comp ratio. Comp ratio is a mechanical thing only modified by structural changes to head shape, piston shape, deck height, etc.

If what you're asking is "When you put on a bigger turbo will it cause comp ratio issues (pinging)" then yes, correct. The higher the static comp ratio, generally the less boost you can pump in without detonation issues. Unless of course you up the type of juice you're using to overcome these issues (100+ octane or E85 which is a more stable fuel under high compression). Sometimes the shape of the piston and combustion chamber can affect this too. Sharp edges that get super hot can cause pre combustion too.

Is that what you're getting at?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6515308
Share on other sites

Maybe get back to why you want to run so much static CR? On a 25/30 a few points more CR isn't noticeable... I've had a 25/30 around 8.4:1 and it was noticeably torque-ier than the 25 bottom end it replaced. New pistons took the same motor up to 9.4:1 and there was very little.... if any difference.

Generally, a smaller turbo will make more heat, require more boost and create more back pressure/egt for the same hp...

At the end of the day, what would you like from your car? how much hp will get you there? what turbo is best matched to your engine for the power goal?

The turbo selection will make the biggest difference difference to your power delivery and potential. The old school NA v8 3C's (cams/compression/carbies) have a much smaller affect on power delivery/potential of RB's than you might think.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6518250
Share on other sites

Maybe get back to why you want to run so much static CR? On a 25/30 a few points more CR isn't noticeable... I've had a 25/30 around 8.4:1 and it was noticeably torque-ier than the 25 bottom end it replaced. New pistons took the same motor up to 9.4:1 and there was very little.... if any difference.

Generally, a smaller turbo will make more heat, require more boost and create more back pressure/egt for the same hp...

At the end of the day, what would you like from your car? how much hp will get you there? what turbo is best matched to your engine for the power goal?

The turbo selection will make the biggest difference difference to your power delivery and potential. The old school NA v8 3C's (cams/compression/carbies) have a much smaller affect on power delivery/potential of RB's than you might think.

Cheers

Justin

to get it to have better off boost RESPONCE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407505-rb2530-cr-on-98/#findComment-6518470
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...