Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Well i am thinking about maybe adding a turbo to my R33...

i am not going for anything too insane, probably only a stock 33/32 turbo to begin with running @ 7PSI or some low amount like that...

my questions:

would i only need turbo + manifold + stock intercooler

or would i also need ECU + injectors + air flow metre

i don't know anything about how the turbo's go on, i know there must be oil/water lines conencted to it?

any feedback would be great :rant:

am i wasteing my cash?

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/
Share on other sites

I would say that you are probaly wasting your cash man. It would be easier to just sell the NA and then buy the Turbo.. If you have a look at a lot of the importers atm they are getting HEAPS of R33 turbos in VERY cheap atm.. last night I recived notification of one that came with Aftermarket turbo - intercooler zaust etc etc for only 15K

have a look at some of them.. might be worth your time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-837008
Share on other sites

my car is in perfect condition - inside and out - 68k KM's with log books....why would iw ant to sell it and go for a thrashed GTS-t that has probably had clock wound back :cheers:

if i wanted to spend a whole heap i'd do full conversion to RB25DET from a half-cut..

this is just a idea i been thinking about doing it on the cheap for now to improve performance a little :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-837714
Share on other sites

putting a turbo on a N/A skyline Read this for a rough idea of what's involved

Good power can be had on the high compression, I'd suggest going for a bigger turbo than the R33 stocko one...with the compression being higher it spools these little ones up a tad too quick....a T04E will give you probably the same response as a factory RB25DET setup...meaning less chance of pinging at low RPM, just keep the boost about 7-8psi and you'll be fine.

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-837785
Share on other sites

Listen to ppl.

your choice

1. Keep your immaculate NA sky

2. sell your NA and buy a threashed turbo sky

3. sell your Na and buy not threashed turbo sky

4. buy RB25DET that is threashed and take out RB25DE plus buy manifold ECU new clutch plus new plugs oils pay $1000 plus for labour for machanic. plus $50 per week public transport fee while car is at machanics plus more fuel costs puld new rotors and brake set ups pads...etc..etc.

Just keep the NA as it is and be happy about it!!!

me two cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-837936
Share on other sites

I'd say get a HKS GT2530 turbo kit for N/A RB25DE's. The high compression wonderfully suits the turbo, its ball bearing so its good for a bit more later down the track. Also comes with optional manifold etc.

OR, supercharge your RB25DE, its becoming a very viable choice with a fair few companies in VIC and NSW (and possibly QLD) doing it. That way you keep most of the old gear. its the most economical way of boosting your car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-838388
Share on other sites

BTW guys I'm sorry for not having my power figures up yet....but I need to get some more coils packs before I can give her a dyno run....I know if I put it on now it'll give a shittier result that what it really packs! It seriously has some balls though :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-839854
Share on other sites

or better yet

get a stock rb25det

remove stock turbo

remove stock cooler

remove stock ecu

remove stock clutch

remove stock air flow meter

add the following

apexi power fc, hand controller and boost controller kit

z32 air flow meter

hks 2530 or ax53b70 turbocharger or t04e/garrett gt30

r33 or r34 gtr front mount intercooler

full 3.5" exhaust system, including hiflow cat, dump pipe and front pipe

255 rear tyres or 265 tyres

whiteline pineapple or suspension kit

gtr fuel pump (from r33)

tomei cams kit

twin plate clutch kit

stock air box or mount pod outside engine bay

depending on turbo you choose exterrnal wastegate and screamer pipe

should get you to see 250rwkw at mid 11's on the 1/4

engine will cost $3000 and parts and turning will cost about $10k

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40758-my-new-idea/#findComment-840125
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...