Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

The thermostat is on the bottom hose

Yep, I have no problem locating it, but getting the tools to undo the thermo housing is a pain in the ass. Should i try using a spanner from underneath the car? I just can't reach the bolt directly under the intake

Thread bump.

I have a nsimo thermostat ready to go in mine, but find it almost impossible to reach the top bolts which is directly under the intake manifold & next to the fuel lines. Any tips?

Is it a low temp one? if so I would think about whether or not to use it.

Is it a low temp one? if so I would think about whether or not to use it.

Yep low temp - 65 degrees.

The car is running an a power FC, so i would have thought the standard ECU cold start/ enrichment ratios won't be affected from lower temp thermo?

What are your opinions on this?

Yep low temp - 65 degrees.

The car is running an a power FC, so i would have thought the standard ECU cold start/ enrichment ratios won't be affected from lower temp thermo?

What are your opinions on this?

Check your temp correction tables in your PowerFC, see when the enrichment is cut out. Really depends how it is set, if it's set to cut out over 70 then you'll always be running with addition injection correction.

I still prefer factory spec thermostats, you would want your water temps about 80~90 as it will warm up your oil too (that's my opinion).

Car is not overheating. At idle stays at about 89 deg, and cruising between 89-92 depending on weather and style of driving.

My tuner mentioned that the thermostat is possibly sticking as when tuning he noticed the bottom hose didn't seem to warm up alot.

I had the opportunity to but the nismo item so i did!

Might end up selling it, but going to speak with my tuner first.

I can't recall if you can see the temperature enrichment tables using the hand controller, if so see what the settings are like

it would be something like

50 = 1.15

60 = 1.10

70 = 1.05

80 = 1

90 = 1

100 = 1.10

110 = 1.20

etc...

Column A = Temperature

Column B = Enrichment Applied

you'll have some minor temperature enrichment as it will interpolate between 50 ~ 80 degrees

So say if your thermostat always reads 65 then on partial load your correction would be about 1.03 - ((80 - 50)/100 * 0.03) = 1.009 and on high load, i.e pedal down around 1.025

which isn't all that much, but you're burning extra fuel you don't need to lol

  • Like 1

Leave the standard temp thermo in. Why run an engine cooler than what it was designed for? If its for an overheating problem, sort out your cooling, don't "band aid" the issue.

Nope, no overheating problem. Cooling system is fine. After taking all your feedback on board, i will be going with a Tridon T"stat - 71 degree item.

But, for shits and giggles because i have the Nismo T"stat lying around, I chucked it in anyway today to see how much difference it really makes.

On idle sat at roughly 70-72 degrees, and cruising and giving it a bit water temps were between 78-80

Not overly cold, but still on the colder side of temps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...