Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys long story short i have changed my radiator , thermostat , radiator hoses , radiator cap and water pump and since then my overflow bottle has gone bone dry 2 times and im freaking out as i have checked my oil cap and its not milky and the fact that i have basically changed the whole cooling system and this is happening.

has anyone else had this same problem or know what it could be cos from what iv seen i cant see any coolant leaking.

last time i filled it up when the overflow went empty, now yesterday the coolant had about 2 fingers left in the bottle and i had a looktoday and there is nothing left then i went filled petrol and have not checked the radiator yet

long story short i bought this car and it sat for 1 year as i was still on my ps and when i was getting a power steering belt changed i later on realised something must of hit the standard radiator and there was a hole so i swapped it out for a just jap one. upon getting my fulls i got it tuned there was a hairline crack in the water pump so that was swapped out and i thought id might as well do the thermostat as the rest of the cooling system was new

hey you bleed the cooling system of air... it could be just bleeding the air from the system and using the coolant from the overflow like it should.

cheers sam

system was bled and filled up after so i doubt it could be that.

If its not leaking on the ground then its probably going in a cylinder,most probably a head gasket.Check the spark plugs,if ones a bit chalky then thats the cylinder

coming to think of it i have had a really bad misfiring on idle so i will def give the spark plugs a check tomorrow

Could be air still working itself through the system keep on filling up and hope it stops, give it 5 more cold start-ups to be sure.

This happened to me, more then twice when i went for a drive checked the coolant in the morning and nothing was in the overflow

turned out my radiator cap was shot and no pressure was in my hoses (check for pressure in yours) changed it and 2-3 times after that it did the same

thing just not as bad and i just kept on feeling her up until coolant stayed. I reckon air still in the system ! i was afraid my head gasket or worse

cracked block was the problem, thank god it wasn't.

Edited by starwarz

poppedd in to my mechanics today he is leaning towards a air leak as when he put more fuel into the tune the car started to idle better.

so its going in next monday for a smoke test and a pressure test on the cooling system

thanks mate... this is the last thing i need now haha.. had car in lock up for a yr just watching it till i got my fulls and hopefully i dont need to watch it for another yr till i save $ to build the engine

It still needs bleeding there hard to bleed. I keep bleeding it then let it cool down and check overflow bottle until level stablizes takes close to 10 times til fully bled so nothing to worry about, either keep topping it up til it stops losing or bleed it.

Edited by boostn0199
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...