Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a s2 rs4s and its knocking/rattling. ive checked it with a stethascope, and the noise is coming from the rear of the engine or bellhousing. i believe these have a dual mass flywheel and this is where the noise is coming from but looking for some clarification from anyone whos pulled a fly wheel out of one.

cheers.

Never seen a dual mass flywheel on an RB but then I haven't seen that many RB flywheels. I would think it very unlikely. On the other hand it is quite possible that someone has fitted a twin plate clutch if your engine has been heavily modified (they are not standard).

Or else you have a screw loose somewhere?!!

this is an oem replacement for a dual mass flywheel on an R34 GT-R

OEM equivalent clutch kit including DMF NSK-7725DMF

this is also for sale on SAU

from an R34 GT-R VSpec

Stock used

Used dual-mass flywheel now for sale - Will inspect condition and update. For now price = $250, may go up or down $50 depending on confirmed condition (will post pics)

so skylines definalty have them and i thought, being a NEO engine, with gtr gearbox(if that waht the awd box is), it may have the GTR dual mass flywheel. im not sure if the GTT had them, but its possible aswell.

Edited by OMY31T

Well I remain unconvinced. From my "research" the only Skyline to have a dual mass flywheel as OEM is the R34GTR with the 6 speed Getrag although aftermarket dmfs are around.

I have an R33GTR box and clutch in my Stagea and the clutch and flywheel came out of a low mileage R33GTR and its a solid flywheel. I'll bet quids that the RS4s came out with a solid flywheel.

mmmm i guess ill just have to pull it out, because its really the only explaination for the noise that i can come up with.... it doesnt sound like piston slap, and all of the cylinder compression are good, i thought it may have been the idler or tensioner pulley for the timing belt, but they have been checked and are fine. the car drives beautifully so its unlikely to be an internal bearing.....

this has really got me by the short and curlys, its all thats stopping me from sending the turbo off to hypergear, got the FMIC, fuel pump, z32afm, hard pipe intake, all i need is the turbo and ecu + tune, but im not going to send it off and power it up if its going to cause more problems...

As stated before, 6 speeds get dual mass flywheels a la 34gtr and s15

Quite likely to have copped a twin plate clutch in japland, extra likely if your clutch is quite firm

Disconnect either injectors or spark down the back end of the motor (one at a time) and check if the noise goes.

If it does it will more than likely be big end bearings, Happened to me on my R33 a few years back.

i think i answered my own question after further googling it seems the Rs4s from 97 onwards has a dual mass flywheel
:D

My RS4S is a 98 and as i have the flywheel out sitting next to the gearbox on the floor, i can tell u its definately NOT a dual mass flywheel. The noise is prob the throw out bearing. Mine was noisy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...