Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Some of you may know I been stressing over if I have a vac leak or not and after hooking up a compressor I couldnt find anything.

Finally decided to give the car a beating today after getting my clutch sorted and I had a strange issue.

Seems in 2nd where it used to build up 20psi very quickly is only building up to around 18 and is pretty sluggy.

Once I get it into 3rd it makes 20 psi still.

Just seems odd as it's running straight off the actuator which is a 20psi spring

Any ideas would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408445-boost-difference/
Share on other sites

Already Smashed out ages ago

I have tried the pressure test and tried blocking off all the parts air was coming to but couldn't find anything.

Also checked all the cooler piping.

I wish some in the ACT had a smoke tester because that would be perfect

Already Smashed out ages ago

I have tried the pressure test and tried blocking off all the parts air was coming to but couldn't find anything.

Also checked all the cooler piping.

I wish some in the ACT had a smoke tester because that would be perfect

Autotech do I believe.

Think about what boost is, and what determines boost. This leaves you with a handful of possibilities:

Leak in intake

Faulty BOV

Faulty actuator

Faulty boost controller

Blocked exhaust

Then on the unlikely possibility it's the turbo at fault:

Faulty waste gate flapper

Could also be faulty boost gauge showing wrong when nothing has changed.

Nah you can hear it whistle when around about -40 to -50 vac

also still has a whine noise when on boost.

You can also notice it is lacking in power.

Jez has told me to make sure the turbo is secure which I will check as soon as I get home.

Also will check all the bolts on the exhaust.

When you stick your head in the engine bay and rev it real hard you can smell exhaust fumes but unable to determine if thats just blowing back from the exhaust or not.

But yeah checking all the bolts and will report back

Yeah the turbo dump was a little loose.

We did them and checked the turbo bolts but they seemed fine.

Took it for a spin and it was boosting fairly well.

2nd gear seems to make boost different to when in 3rd which I didn't think was possible.

On the way to work it still managed to whistle again at around the same vacume.

Not sure if related but I cleaned the AAC and put that back on plugged it all back in and no matter what I do the car idles at 1500rpm unless I unplug it

Maybe the AAC hose is damaged? there was a thread like 3~4 years back where one guys' AAC hose (from the cross over pipe) melted and couldn't work out why it was running like shit. Turns out the underside melted because of his turbo.

Just a though :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...