Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, got a quick question for you. I picked up a Series 1 RB30 block and I have cone down to the point where I am about to fill the block to the bottom of the lower welsh plugs. When I removed the 30mmlower welsh plugs on the intake side of the engine, there is maybe an inch or less of empty space below the plug bottom. And on the exhaust side, there is cast right up to the bottom of the plug. I was under the assumption that there was quite a bit of dead space there that needed filled.

Also, did any of you bolt the head or a torque plate to the block when the HardBlok was hardening?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance......

id also be interested as im considering doing this to my motor.

but had a couple of questions if it'd work for me as i was planing on running the motor on 98, but with water injection would i see super high temperatures sitting in traffic? or sitting on the start line at a drift event?

sorry to hijack your thread just really curious

No you wont. I've had 3 motors with filled blocks now, sits 70 degrees with a tri-pass radiator on a 25 degree day...

Pretty standard for quite a lot of builders out there really. Only difference is "how much" is filled, people have their own ideas etc.

If everyone has been filling to the bottom of the lower welsh plugs, then I don't even have to touch the exhaust side of the engine. There is literally cast block right up to the bottom of the exhaust side engine lower welsh plugs. At this point, it almost makes no sense to even do it lol, seriously. I doubt that even filling only the intake side with about an inch of HardBlok will do me any good at this point. And everyone means the lower welsh plugs, right??? Not the upper 22mm welsh plugs?

I have just done this to a RB30, put all frost plugs in except the one at the front on the exhaust side then get the bung from the oil return line on the exhaust side and put it in the heater line fitting on the intake side then get block level and fill til it is level with the hole you can see through the frost plug not put in, that will have it 10mm above the bottom of the stroke with RB25 pistons and 2-3mm into the heater hose line and well above the water feed line for turbos

I had the machining done after HardBloking it so didn't need a torque late

note: make it runny almost like pumpkin soup and spread it evenly around the block, I got a oil syringe from autobarn cut the end nearly completely off and used it to spread it then I used a steel support from a wiper blade with the end bent to a 90 and used it to oscillate the HardBlok to level it around the block

still yet to finish building that engine so don't know how it will go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...