New Owner And Noob Of A 1990 R32 Rb20Det Gts4T 4 Door

[Aljo]

So I got started on the mechanical work that is required for roadworthy and Queensland compliancing as this was complianced in NSW but QLD requires a mod plate and thus needs to go through inspection up here.

I have all the parts now

QFM Break pads (NEW)

RDA slotted front discs and RDA rear discs (NEW)

Replacement front left shock and shock mount

Replacement secondhand front CV shafts

Adjustable upper control amrs (NEW)

Rear outer tie rod ends (NEW)

Lower front (sway bar) with good bushes.

I went to get started on dissembling the front end started with the callipers to remove the rotors then to remove the cv shafts.

I couldn't get the big bolts to budge, no room back there for my impact gun, very limited leverage room working close to the ground, I used a lot of WD40 but that did not help and to top it off when reading the workshop manual for hints and how to I saw that the reassembling of the front shafts will require a torque measuring tool, too properly tighten the hub lock nut on reassembly which I do not have not too mention there seems to be another special tool called a Pitman arm puller used to separate the tie-rod and suspension lower ball joint. So besides the fact that I couldn't get the calliper off the simplest of things which I have done on my other 10 cars over the years these callipers differ in that they are a 4 piston set-up (all my other cars were 1 maybe 2 but both on the back side sliding the calliper and those bolts are in tight demoralised and greasy I packed up my stuff reassembled the car so I could drive and called it a day.

I am thinking this particular job will require an expert. Thinking Pedders as they can also complete a wheel alignment.

Advice welcomed.

[Aljo]

Where is the best place to tap into a vacuum line for the boost gauge?

[Tonks]

Where is the best place to tap into a vacuum line for the boost gauge?

Can tee peice off the factory vacuum line at the back of the plenum or off the fuel pressure reg line

[Aljo]

Can tee peice off the factory vacuum line at the back of the plenum or off the fuel pressure reg line

Yeah a mate of mine said the following "Find the fuel rail under inlet manifold. One end will have a regulator which has a vac line. T that.

That sound about the same as what you have advised, right.

Is it one of these hoses in this area? Updated is that the one?

Edited October 5, 2012 by Aljo

[Tonks]

Yep thats it. You can see my blue one there

Edited October 7, 2012 by 4DR_32

[Aljo]

Yep thats it. You can see my blue one there

Awesome thx for the feed back and pic.

I installed mine today gauge reads -9 to -8 and under max load gets too 6PSI shouldn't it read 0 and show 14 to 15PSI under max load.

I have read stock ceramic turbo should produce 10PSI I have it boosted with a Turbosmart Boost Tee Controller Tap Valve and have read they are good for around 14PSI which seems about ball park as far as counting from -9 to 6 15 increments just worried about the minus reading when it should read 0, right? Forgot to take pics of the T setup but here are some pics of the boost sensor actuator.

On another note I have installed an immobilizer with remote entry, using a master actuator to control existing central locking setup.

Also installed the isolator secondary battery start-up switch, 0 gauge ground wire, new battery and battery terminals.

Edited October 8, 2012 by Aljo

[Tonks]

Awesome thx for the feed back and pic.

I installed mine today gauge reads -9 to -8 and under max load gets too 6PSI shouldn't it read 0 and show 14 to 15PSI under max load.

I have read stock ceramic turbo should produce 10PSI I have it boosted with a Turbosmart Boost Tee Controller Tap Valve and have read they are good for around 14PSI which seems about ball park as far as counting from -9 to 6 15 increments just worried about the minus reading when it should read 0, right? Forgot to take pics of the T setup but here are some pics of the boost sensor actuator.

On another note I have installed an immobilizer with remote entry, using a master actuator to control existing central locking setup.

Also installed the isolator secondary battery start-up switch, 0 gauge ground wire, new battery and battery terminals.

No at idle it should read vaccum which is minus whatever, it depends on what your gauge scale is, like mine is analogue and reads vaccum in inches of mercury (inHg) around -19 to -20, and im running a vg30 turbo allowing me to run 15 pounds per square inch (psi) Quick google to me says that -9psi is roughly -18inHg.

I'd say 6psi is stock actuator maybe someone else may be able to clarify this one?

[Aljo]

No at idle it should read vaccum which is minus whatever, it depends on what your gauge scale is, like mine is analogue and reads vaccum in inches of mercury (inHg) around -19 to -20, and im running a vg30 turbo allowing me to run 15 pounds per square inch (psi) Quick google to me says that -9psi is roughly -18inHg.

I'd say 6psi is stock actuator maybe someone else may be able to clarify this one?

Thanks for continued feedback and interest in helping me out, much appreciated.

The gauge measures

-14~30 PSI

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290776461928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2014wt_1163 this is the one.

[Tonks]

Thanks for continued feedback and interest in helping me out, much appreciated.

The gauge measures

-14~30 PSI

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2014wt_1163 this is the one.

All good

Yeh I thought it read the whole scale in psi.

Your vacuum seems about right, so you said you installed a boost tee and have wound it up? I myself wouldnt push the ceramic turbo much past 12 just for longevity, but have a good google and search on some older threads about the stock turbo but if you have installed the tee correctly and wound it up I'd say you should have more than 6psi though?

[Aljo]

t

All good Yeh I thought it read the whole scale in psi. Your vacuum seems about right, so you said you installed a boost tee and have wound it up? I myself wouldnt push the ceramic turbo much past 12 just for longevity, but have a good google and search on some older threads about the stock turbo but if you have installed the tee correctly and wound it up I'd say you should have more than 6psi though?

Yeah will take a look at it tomorrow. Re-check the install and close the boost tap and re-check readings.

[Chris Rogers]

Awesome thx for the feed back and pic.

I installed mine today gauge reads -9 to -8 and under max load gets too 6PSI shouldn't it read 0 and show 14 to 15PSI under max load.

I have read stock ceramic turbo should produce 10PSI I have it boosted with a Turbosmart Boost Tee Controller Tap Valve and have read they are good for around 14PSI which seems about ball park as far as counting from -9 to 6 15 increments just worried about the minus reading when it should read 0, right? Forgot to take pics of the T setup but here are some pics of the boost sensor actuator.

On another note I have installed an immobilizer with remote entry, using a master actuator to control existing central locking setup.

actuator will FAIL like that. find a N15 pulsar door mech and bolt that in place.

also I hope for your sake those batteries are BOLTED down. you have more than enough current back there to blow a hole the size of your fist in that panel and in the tank below.

I own a coupe version of this car (mine is a 5 spd.) so I can help with most of the stuff you are asking about.

[Aljo]

actuator will FAIL like that. find a N15 pulsar door mech and bolt that in place.

also I hope for your sake those batteries are BOLTED down. you have more than enough current back there to blow a hole the size of your fist in that panel and in the tank below.

I own a coupe version of this car (mine is a 5 spd.) so I can help with most of the stuff you are asking about.

I have a few spares if need be. I know solenoids don't like running on their side but it will work for now, I will look into the N15 door mech but not sure if it would be compatible with my remote entry system. If it fails too quick I can try mounting it upright. Another thing that might cause a fail is the lack of required movement at the end point travel, stops short but actuator continues to push before resting.

The rear battery is held down very sturdy but I will be re-enforcing it some what in one of the next stages of the stereo install. The battery has durable foam padding that helps level it vs the contours of the tire well also there are non slip mats top and bottom and it is very heavy too, roughly 30Kgs from memory.

Help as in advice? All and any help is appreciated.

Edited October 9, 2012 by Aljo

[Chris Rogers]

n15 is a bolt in item. been using them for the past few years. oem fitment and they do not fail like the gun motors do.

[Aljo]

n15 is a bolt in item. been using them for the past few years. oem fitment and they do not fail like the gun motors do.

Sweet on my to do list, thx.

Here is the way I have the boost sensor tapped.

Was not able to do much on the car today busy with my sisters car problems,. My car goes into Pedders in the morning to have everything fitted.

RDA rotors all round

QFM pads all round

front left shock and upper mount

front cv shafts

rear lower outer tie rod ends

front lower swaybar and bushes

New gear box oil lines and a few other oil lines

Adjustable front upper control arms

Wheel balance and wheel alignment all round

Should drive nicely ones all is completed.

[Aljo]

Ok so removed boost controller and the boost sensor piping/tap hardware and re-installed it all with brass fittings and new piping instead of that clear stuff went for proper vacuum hose.

This has fixed any issue the first setup had. Boost gauge is reading 11-12PSI at full boost and with 6 notches + on boost controller reading 14PSI @ max boost.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NlC1nNU4LI&hd=1

These are the fittings convert 6.5mm to a 5mm used locktite on threads.

Squeezed the 5mm piping onto the 6.5mm connection on the wastegate actuator (have my younger sister to thank for that her smaller hands were able to get in there and get it on for me. (seriously she used two hands I could just fit 1 hand)

Tiny mod to the air box to allow room for the boost controller

Removed the crappy clear piping and plastic tee piece and refitted with good quality hardware.

Not only looks better but boost gauge is reading correctly

Video to be posted asap

Edited October 13, 2012 by Aljo

[Tonks]

Ok so removed boost controller and the boost sensor piping/tap hardware and re-installed it all with brass fittings and new piping instead of that clear stuff went for proper vacuum hose.

This has fixed any issue the first setup had. Boost gauge is reading 11-12PSI at full boost and with 6 notches + on boost controller reading 14PSI @ max boost.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NlC1nNU4LI&hd=1

These are the fittings convert 6.5mm to a 5mm used locktite on threads.

Squeezed the 5mm piping onto the 6.5mm connection on the wastegate actuator (have my younger sister to thank for that her smaller hands were able to get in there and get it on for me. (seriously she used two hands I could just fit 1 hand)

Tiny mod to the air box to allow room for the boost controller

Removed the crappy clear piping and plastic tee piece and refitted with good quality hardware.

Not only looks better but boost gauge is reading correctly

Video to be posted asap

Looks much better now, thought it may have been that tubing causing the issues.

Not sure on how long your turbo will last pushing 14psi but see how it goes, in the mean time i'd be looking for an rb25 or vg30 turbo as a cheap upgrade.