Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Just ordered a set of Garret -9's + Gasket Kit from Street to Track!

I will be installing them myself, as far as i know of the gasket kit i ordered is only for the turbo's, i take it i need another set for the dumps/exhaust? (Garrett branded gasket set)

Now while i will have everything out and about, do you guys recommend I change anything else to get my desired power out of of 300-350rwkw? (give or take)

Should i change my dumps, intercooler, EBC (the greddy profspec II is $350?) or anything else?

Car specs are as follows;

1995 R33 GTR

HKS Pods

Ganador Exhaust

Hiflow cat

Everything else is standard.

At this stage, I am hoping to get 300-350~rwkw (give or take, ,pref give) but keeping it responsive as the car is my daily driver.

I also believe my car will NEED to be tuned after i have put the turbo's on. Thinking of going the used apexi power fc route. From the reading i have done, its a safe bet to get a tune done at Racepace (im in melbourne, northern suburbs) if anybody knows any more local tuners please let me know.

Any input appreciated on what mods to do while the turbo's are out (And where to purchase the additional gaskets/studs/stuff you guys recommend), or any tips/tricks you guys have found while installing them will be awesome!

Edited by Booki
  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://www.skylinesa...lazy-gt2860-9s/

http://www.skylinesa...rett-gt2860-9s/

You should get a few ideas from these threads.

I myself had -9's on a stock 26, 300 kw at 20 psi.

For up to 280-300WKW most were pushing stock everything, just exhaust highflow metal cat exhaust and tune.

If aiming for over 300WKW, nismo afms, 550cc injectors, maybe a fresh fuel pump, probably get a stock airbox and snorkel setup as it won't suck hot eng bay air.... Also some decent adjustable actuators for the turbo's. 22 or so psi on bp 98 and see how you go :D

Eng wise, stock cams, but adustable cam gears, stock dumps are fine up to 350RWKW, stock intercooler is fine also. Some sort of catch can setup would help too to stop blowby oil going into turbo intake and intercooler.

Cheers sean, Ill have a read!

When you say we are pushing most of the stock parts, is it safe and reliable to do so?

As the car is my daily, I want to try and avoid things breaking down.

Do brands matter on the adjustable cam gears? Or are they all the same? Just had a quick search on eBay

Also - I would drop the HKS pod filters and go back to the stock airbox if I were you unless you have proper isolation from the engine bay. Keeps air intake temps lower for longer. Not sure about the R33 GTR ones but also open up the bit in the airbox that draws air from the guard.

Edit: Ahh just read your post Sean - on the money!

Unfortunately I bought the car with the HKS pods on it, no stock airbox was included.

I might have to look at making something up the draw in cold air, otherwise I am not sure if its worth going back to the stock airbox when the $$$ could be put towards other mods?

Is it worth setting up a EBC while everything will be out?

Good to know the stock intercooler and dumps are ok.

Any recommended cam gears? I would assume its best to avoid the pretty cheap looking ones on eBay...can apply that theory to soo many different situations.... ;)

Don't bother with EBC. Speak to Racepace - get the higher pressure actuators and get Racepace to modify them and the wastegates, and put in their boost control setup.

Tomei cam gears, or Racepace can modify your standard ones to be adjustable.

As above, with the right actuators you won't need a boost controller.

Stock engine will be fine at 300+ or so at the wheels, as long as you look after it, good tune, serviced properly etc.(and it's in good nick to start off with)

Street to track said the -9 turbo's he is selling me come with actuators, though i am not sure what type.

Question: if i were to go the boost controller route and keep the actuators provided (assuming that is ok), from my understanding i can adjust my boost in the car while driving. Would lowering my boost improve my fuel economy? Or would the car just run stupidly rich due to running less boost? thus pretty much making a boost controller fairly pointless..? Little confused now about running a EBC vs not having one. Btw i am not running any boost gauges, figured the EBC would also serve as one.

So at this stage, i am looking at needing

More gaskets/studs if required

Injectors - ???

fuel pump - which one?

coil packs - yellow jacket, split fires?

catchcan - wow they are expensive, 700 big ones!

aftermarket computer

Tune

Re the tune, does it matter if i put the injectors, fuel pump, coil packs in after the tune?

Edited by Booki

Well I assumed a power fc was what he was planning on getting....

555cc injectors or similar, I got 288RWKW on the stock 440cc injectors and fuel pump and afms.

Stock fuel pump is okay, but how old is it now?? Nismo pump if you can swallow the cost (great thing is that there are a straight fit) or 044.

I'd only change coil packs if it is showning signs of missfiring, splitfires are one of the best besides brand new oem.

Depends on what catchcan you get, eg just jap one is a lot less than 700, nismo oil/air separator kit is exy...

power fc is the most cost effective, but of course there is better $$$$

500-800 for a tune depending on where you go.

RE: Retune,

It will matter with injectors, and maybe pump as it will need a tune again to get the air fuel ratios right again.

If you are handy with a die grinder you can also port match the exhaust manifolds to the turbo exhaust inlets.....

So at this stage, i am looking at needing

More gaskets/studs if required

Injectors - ???

fuel pump - which one?

coil packs - yellow jacket, split fires?

catchcan - wow they are expensive, 700 big ones!

aftermarket computer

Tune

Re the tune, does it matter if i put the injectors, fuel pump, coil packs in after the tune?

Injectors id1000s they are awesome plus plenty of room to move if you want to go flex fuel/e85

Fuel pump, Nismo worth the money

Coil packs, like Sean said, only if they need replacing, I went spitfires never been happier

Catch can, I went the Nismo set up route, is an awesome bit of kit, race pace do one too

Computer, can go trustee power fc or go vipec

If you want more then 300kw you will need new AFMs either go Z32s or Nismos

Clutch will need to be looked at too

If you want more than 300 then just piss off the afm's. I am spewing that I didnt go a MAP based ecu from the start.

ID 1000's like Nick said, are the bomb

You have a lot of choices for fuel pump, Bosch 044, Nismo, Walbro, deutschwerks etc

I recommend Link ecu, as your looking at close to the same amount of money as buying a powerfc and z32 ecu's.

Also look at the just jap autech style catch can. Few guys have run them, love them. Mine is going in tomorrow. :)

Just to confirm. Its not actually possible to tune the standard ecu is it? I have read about nistune upgrades but they only apply to r32 ecu's.

Is the bosc 040 no good? Thats a direct fitment isn't it?

Will have to see whats involved installing the 044.

I was looking at the SRI Alloy catch can tank, mainly because it looks like installation would be easy, just goes where the washer bottle is.

Although the autech is cheaper, hmmm

Edited by Booki

I feel you have much to learn. You need to do some serious reading.

044 drops in, Im running it and she's fine. Once again, gives room to breath.

No the ecu cannot be tuned. Yes you can get a 32 ecu and one pin needs to be rewired due some temp sensor difference and then you can get that new 32 ecu nistuned

I thought the 044 needs modifications to the stock cradle to fit in the tank? There is a diy On the forum was reading it before....

And your not wrong, I've got a bucket load more reading ahead on top of everything I have already read. Just never ends! Expect more Noob questions to follow...!!

Edited by Booki

My friend before you do anything, the best advice i can give you is, keep your gtr stock - so you can drive it around and your not car-less, and save up and stock up all the parts whilst reading and researching along the way.

Alot of the fellas have given really good advice

My friend before you do anything, the best advice i can give you is, keep your gtr stock - so you can drive it around and your not car-less, and save up and stock up all the parts whilst reading and researching along the way.

Alot of the fellas have given really good advice

Its ok if im car less for a little...I get the "school holidays" for work.

So im off work until next week ;)

Hoping that one week will be plenty of time to get stuff organised, installed and setup !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...