Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently my R33 GTST is at the tuners again. They having trouble getting decent power out of the car. Curious to hear peoples thoughts.

Current modifications are;

Rebuilt motor & reco head 10,000kms ago

GTX3076R bolt on turbo, FMIC, intake.

Wolf 3D v4.

Full exhaust

044 fuel pump & nismo 740cc injectors

At 9 psi of boost it makes 190rwkw

At 16psi of boost its currently making 220rwkw and starts to detonate so they must modify the timing they said.

I thought it would be alot higher than this for that boost level?

Thanks.

Edited by GotsWapan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410142-low-power-for-mods/
Share on other sites

what does full exhaust mean? those symptoms are bit like the exhaust is blocked, like a cat or a restrictor..

I think the 9psi to get 190kw is probably right, with 15psi i was getting 260kw so you should be around that..

what housing is it?

Now you mentioned that it reminded me of this -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403526-rb25-gt3076r-turbine-housing-size/

Sounds like a similar thing.

Certainly sounds like just another case of butchered housings. If a GT series have issues with them, it's only going to be worse with a GTX given they are meant to make more power.

If it's not the housing

- Exhaust

- Timing belt is out a tooth possibly

Currently my R33 GTST is at the tuners again. They having trouble getting decent power out of the car. Curious to hear peoples thoughts.

Current modifications are;

Rebuilt motor & reco head 10,000kms ago

GTX3076R bolt on turbo, FMIC, intake.

Wolf 3D v4.

Full exhaust

044 fuel pump & nismo 740cc injectors

At 9 psi of boost it makes 190rwkw

At 16psi of boost its currently making 220rwkw and starts to detonate so they must modify the timing they said.

I thought it would be alot higher than this for that boost level?

Thanks.

Hey mate, have you got the detonation verified with headphones or is your tuner just running of the knock sensor?

Reason being, I used to get alot of noise which the knock sensor interpreted as detonation.

I'm also running a GTX3076r on my RB25 and make jsut a tad over 300rwkw on 21psi, so would expect yours to be around the 260rwkw mark like SIlverS2 said :)

Well if you runit on stock manifold as a bolt on turbo internally gated on that housing its not going to make lots of power. GTX3076 is ideal for external gate. Also I didn't see metail induction pipe in your mod list, you will need a 4inch metal induction pipe for that turbo.

Not sure of that turbodragon, I assume its with headhpones. Its a fairly reputable workshop and they do alot of RB25 work and work on VLs. I havent spoken with them today. Will ring them soon

Best to ask them and find out. Could save you a lotta time and cash if it was just phantom noises coming from the harmonic balancer or soemthing lol

Plenty run a 3" that just steps out to 4" @ the comp housing to get a hose around. In fact that's how most are done come to think of it given a Z32 isn't 4"

Yep, Z32s are only 3" so 3" intake pipe and a 3"-4" reducer at the comp housing inlet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...