Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently my R33 GTST is at the tuners again. They having trouble getting decent power out of the car. Curious to hear peoples thoughts.

Current modifications are;

Rebuilt motor & reco head 10,000kms ago

GTX3076R bolt on turbo, FMIC, intake.

Wolf 3D v4.

Full exhaust

044 fuel pump & nismo 740cc injectors

At 9 psi of boost it makes 190rwkw

At 16psi of boost its currently making 220rwkw and starts to detonate so they must modify the timing they said.

I thought it would be alot higher than this for that boost level?

Thanks.

Edited by GotsWapan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410142-low-power-for-mods/
Share on other sites

what does full exhaust mean? those symptoms are bit like the exhaust is blocked, like a cat or a restrictor..

I think the 9psi to get 190kw is probably right, with 15psi i was getting 260kw so you should be around that..

what housing is it?

Now you mentioned that it reminded me of this -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403526-rb25-gt3076r-turbine-housing-size/

Sounds like a similar thing.

Certainly sounds like just another case of butchered housings. If a GT series have issues with them, it's only going to be worse with a GTX given they are meant to make more power.

If it's not the housing

- Exhaust

- Timing belt is out a tooth possibly

Currently my R33 GTST is at the tuners again. They having trouble getting decent power out of the car. Curious to hear peoples thoughts.

Current modifications are;

Rebuilt motor & reco head 10,000kms ago

GTX3076R bolt on turbo, FMIC, intake.

Wolf 3D v4.

Full exhaust

044 fuel pump & nismo 740cc injectors

At 9 psi of boost it makes 190rwkw

At 16psi of boost its currently making 220rwkw and starts to detonate so they must modify the timing they said.

I thought it would be alot higher than this for that boost level?

Thanks.

Hey mate, have you got the detonation verified with headphones or is your tuner just running of the knock sensor?

Reason being, I used to get alot of noise which the knock sensor interpreted as detonation.

I'm also running a GTX3076r on my RB25 and make jsut a tad over 300rwkw on 21psi, so would expect yours to be around the 260rwkw mark like SIlverS2 said :)

Well if you runit on stock manifold as a bolt on turbo internally gated on that housing its not going to make lots of power. GTX3076 is ideal for external gate. Also I didn't see metail induction pipe in your mod list, you will need a 4inch metal induction pipe for that turbo.

Not sure of that turbodragon, I assume its with headhpones. Its a fairly reputable workshop and they do alot of RB25 work and work on VLs. I havent spoken with them today. Will ring them soon

Best to ask them and find out. Could save you a lotta time and cash if it was just phantom noises coming from the harmonic balancer or soemthing lol

Plenty run a 3" that just steps out to 4" @ the comp housing to get a hose around. In fact that's how most are done come to think of it given a Z32 isn't 4"

Yep, Z32s are only 3" so 3" intake pipe and a 3"-4" reducer at the comp housing inlet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • Yea pedal box and no abs
    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...