Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay first up I previously had a built 25/30 running 356kw using the same head and custom intake manifold.

Only changes this build were to the oiling system, 0.5 higher comp ratio, total seal rings, cam change from 232 duration 6.5mm lift cams to 262/9.1mm with appropriate springs and port tidy up and match the intake manifold ports.

Now I had discussed with the tuner I only wanted it ran off spring pressure in the wastegate so I can learn to drive it at that power level First, made it very clear I wanted a super safe tune and wasn't to concerened with the power level.

So he apparently he had it up and running, bedded the rings In on the dyno for around 10kays, changed out the mineral oil to redline oil ready to get into tunning.

Then he tells me he's ran it up for a power run without touching anything with the tune or boost, where it pulled only 320wkw on 21psi. Down considerably on the old setup and boosted well past where I wanted.

Now apparently Afr's were safe the whole time.

After fixing a small coolant leak the car wasn't idling right and had smoke pluming out of the catch can. Comp test revealed front 2 cylinders down around 50psi and the rest were at about 110psi (which I feel is extremely low for a brand new engine).

Now the engine builder and tuner are unsure of why this has happened but only suspects are the custom intake manifold which kinda points the throttle body towards cylinders 1-2.

I would post a pic of intake manifold but I'm posting from iPhone away at work.

But it's the intake manifold off dahtone racings old 2GUUp candy red r32 skyline.

Now I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues due to a plenum? And who should kind of be at fault here?

I'm far from happy so far!

Specs of the build as follows: rb25/30

Custom je pistons with total seal rings and spool rods, usual block and crank prep, nitto oil pump, lewis engines race sump, r32 rb25de non vct head, ported, springs, cam tech 264/9mm cams, custom intake manifold, sard 700cc injectors, twin entry rail, walbro lift pump, 044 feed pump, haltech e11v2 ecu with boost control. Twin scroll t04z, 0.8 rear housing, turbo smart 50mm gate.

Sorry about big post! Cheers all

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

https://m.facebook.com/dahtoneracing?refid=9#!/photo.php?fbid=1174491395851&id=1035030725&set=a.1174487315749.26782.1035030725&__user=553976899

I can't post a direct pic from iPhone sorry. Here is a link tho.

I have that entire top end, head plenum injectors rail throttle body.

Mate This will be a story with no happy ending. Workshops are very forward stating if the motor pops on the dyno they not at fault. If they monitored the runs right they could show you that the AFRs where safe but i suspect they wont.

I'm away at work at the moment which makes this whole situation shit, I'm back on Monday morning and going straight to the tuners to demand to see the dyno read outs

I'm away at work at the moment which makes this whole situation shit, I'm back on Monday morning and going straight to the tuners to demand to see the dyno read outs

I'm away at work at the moment which makes this whole situation shit, I'm back on Monday morning and going straight to the tuners to demand to see the dyno read outs

You'll get a MUCH better result if you go there and ask nicely to see them. Don't assume they are at fault, it will only make things much harder for you.

Instead, go there with your objective thinking cap on and listen to what they say, take all the information on board and then ask some other experts about what has been said. Try to take someone with you who might know a lot more about these things.

Think about trying to find out WHY rather than WHO and the WHO will work itself out in the end.

Okay I worded that very Wrong saying demand.

I entirely understand the power of respect and level headedness in a situation like this, i know the finger cannot be pointed at anyone just yet untill we figure out what caused this failure.

Last I spoke with tuner and engine builder they were pulling off the intake manifold to have it put on a flow bench.

But if the needle does land on this intake manifold after flow bench testing and the engine builder had to weld up a small tab on the intake manifold and checked the port matching on the manifold, said it looked like a good unit.

shouldn't perhaps some concern have been expressed if it didn't look up to the task?

Forget looking at the cause until you have fully accessed the outcome. Get it apart and with careful inspection you will be able to pin point what and how this has happened . The dyno runs showing afr means little as it shows an average tailpipe mixture not individual cylinder mixture and shows nothing regarding detonation, which if it's drilled something would be the cause wether a lean mixture concentration promoted the detonation in the first instance.

Forget looking at the cause until you have fully accessed the outcome. Get it apart and with careful inspection you will be able to pin point what and how this has happened . The dyno runs showing afr means little as it shows an average tailpipe mixture not individual cylinder mixture and shows nothing regarding detonation, which if it's drilled something would be the cause wether a lean mixture concentration promoted the detonation in the first instance.

Zachary.

Pull the engine down and assess the damage. Only then can you begin to unwrap the puzzle pieces in reverse

Think about trying to find out WHY rather than WHO and the WHO will work itself out in the end.

Thats a great way to put it!

And sorry to hear about your engine, that must really suck :(

Edited by JustinP

They informed me they put a borescope down the low comp cylinders and they had signs of Det and damaged bores on my already 87mm bored block.

I have heavily researched hard running in methods etc.

Now the tuners run in method was

Fire engine, free rev and blipping throttle under 50% till at temp, shut off engine check leaks etc, let it cool down, load it on the dyno and sit it at about 90kmh in 4th gear under medium load lowish boost for the 10kays.

I was under the impresion a good ring bed in required vartied loads, revs and engine braking?

On a fresh as fresh engine with good ring bed in what kind of cylinder pressures should be expected?

110psi for cylinders 3-6 seems low to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...