Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a rb26/30 with all the goodies in it, I am wanting to run 35+psi on E85 and i have been told that the ignition has to be changed to do so. Can you big hp guys recommend a setup to run as i am chasing 750rwhp through my glide. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410235-rb2630-ignition-setup-help/
Share on other sites

http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-output-igbt-inductive-smart-coil-1240

This is what I would use - best inductive ignition system I've seen.

I tend to prefer running inductive ignition system compared to cdi on almost all applications - especially on street cars.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-output-igbt-inductive-smart-coil-1240

This is what I would use - best inductive ignition system I've seen.

I tend to prefer running inductive ignition system compared to cdi on almost all applications - especially on street cars.

They look like awesome coils. No CDI or igniter unit required. Less to go wrong?

How have they performed for you rob?

Why do you not like CDI systems? Because of the electrical interferance and low dwell time?

They look like awesome coils. No CDI or igniter unit required. Less to go wrong?

How have they performed for you rob?

Why do you not like CDI systems? Because of the electrical interferance and low dwell time?

I'm about to turn up the wick on a certain engine that will be in the vacinity of 2000hp with these coils - currently at 1260hp and no issues with 1.1mm at 18psi. Have seen them not misfire with 1.1mm gap at this boost with mixtures as rich as lambda 0.67.

CDI is good if you want high peak secondary current and minimal dwell time - issues I have with CDI is eletrcial interference and low spark duration coupled with extra cost. Only thing with these coils and LS2 series coils is the dwell time can be as large as 5ms at 14V for full spark energy which can be a bit much on non sequential setups with rapid accelleration rates and flat shifting. Doubt most people would run into this issue though.

Edited by rob82

I'm about to turn up the wick on a certain engine that will be in the vacinity of 2000hp with these coils - currently at 1260hp and no issues with 1.1mm at 18psi. Have seen them not misfire with 1.1mm gap at this boost with mixtures as rich as lambda 0.67.

CDI is good if you want high peak secondary current and minimal dwell time - issues I have with CDI is eletrcial interference and low spark duration coupled with extra cost. Only thing with these coils and LS2 series coils is the dwell time can be as large as 5ms at 14V for full spark energy which can be a bit much on non sequential setups with rapid accelleration rates and flat shifting. Doubt most people would run into this issue though.

Isn't it easier to ignite the air/fuel on an engine that has a much larger bore like that one?

http://www.aemelectr...smart-coil-1240

This is what I would use - best inductive ignition system I've seen.

I tend to prefer running inductive ignition system compared to cdi on almost all applications - especially on street cars.

Certainly look like great value for money - any potential downside?

Isn't it easier to ignite the air/fuel on an engine that has a much larger bore like that one?

Yep - generally the higher the torque the greater the cylinder pressures so the higher harder it is on the ignition system...

I haven't try these coils on an xr6t, because they wouldn't fit very well but the are probably one car that really pushes a coils ability and I know just the car to test on. If I get to test them on that car I will let you guys know how they hold up?

Also the only other downside is that they aren't cop...

Edited by rob82

We have run these coils on a 140mph 1jz running nos for the last 12 months.

Very good coil charge time with amp saturation. Would I run them on 50+psi probably not.

That's not to say that they wouldn't do it, I would not like to commit and say they will and then have to fit CDI any way.

I have found that inductive just seems to run nicer with back to back tests. Engines just sound that little bit happier.

We have run these coils on a 140mph 1jz running nos for the last 12 months.

Very good coil charge time with amp saturation. Would I run them on 50+psi probably not.

That's not to say that they wouldn't do it, I would not like to commit and say they will and then have to fit CDI any way.

I have found that inductive just seems to run nicer with back to back tests. Engines just sound that little bit happier.

Everyone likes a happy engine don't they

Well at the end of the day, after cylinder pressure and temp, Egts, MBT, BSFC, gudgeon pin size, exhaust wheel temp, oil pressure and temperature all we are doing in pleasuring the engine just how it likes it.

Golden rule, give the engine what it wants. If it wants CDI it gets CDI. If it want 28 degrees of ignition timing at 30psi of boost and a 175 shot of gas then give it 28 degrees.

Its kinda like an extremely high maintenance gf. You work and work for months just to be able to take it out and show it off to your friends then it craps in your face just to keep you keen (Or on the highway at the top of 4th gear) when it doesn't get its way.

The only downfall i can see with these is they are a damn big coil. Mounting 6 of these may not be the easiest to do so.

But i do like, and these have risen to the No 1 on my most likely coil to buy for my setup.

I'm about to turn up the wick on a certain engine that will be in the vacinity of 2000hp with these coils - currently at 1260hp and no issues with 1.1mm at 18psi. Have seen them not misfire with 1.1mm gap at this boost with mixtures as rich as lambda 0.67.

CDI is good if you want high peak secondary current and minimal dwell time - issues I have with CDI is eletrcial interference and low spark duration coupled with extra cost. Only thing with these coils and LS2 series coils is the dwell time can be as large as 5ms at 14V for full spark energy which can be a bit much on non sequential setups with rapid accelleration rates and flat shifting. Doubt most people would run into this issue though.

So these would be worth a try on my RB30/25 aiming at 330 - 350 awkw with a rev limit of 6800 and no flat shifting or would I need to change my Link G4 with 4 ignition channels for a Link Extreme to allow sequential firing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...