Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm looking to instal an aftermarket boost gauge on my R34 GT-T. It's mechanical so i need to connect the hose somewhere on the turbo line. I've searched around the forums and google a fair bit and thought this sorta thing would have been covered already but i really couldn't find much, or anything with pictures, or maybe i just dont understand it.

But yeah, i thought its better to be safe than sorry, so where and what exactly do i cut and put my T piece to connect the hose for the boost gauge?

Thanks heaps

yeah, ive looked around a bit and thats what most of them say. but im not too familiar with where the intake manifold is or even where the vacuum lines are. And instead of cutting something and ruining my engine i was hoping for something a little more detailed.

like a photo would be awesome, or anything a bit more helpful.

Do some reading up on engines and their basic layout - will help you a lot in future.

gallery_34711_3643_89247.jpg

See the cylindrical shaped thing on the bottom left with a black hose coming out the top of it? That is the blow off valve and the black hose is a vacuum line that runs from it to the intake manifold. You can splice your T piece into this line.

oh okay, thanks for that. I attached an image just to make sure, so the red circle is the tube i should cut to attach the T piece?

I have heard from someone that you can also cut the hose coming from that little black can shaped thing, i circled the tube coming off it. Would i be better off cutting this tube?

So which out of the two would be better to cut.

Another question is, will this cause any problems to occur such as stalling or the car running poorly? It just seems a bit daunting to be cutting a tube going to the intake manifold and attaching a little T piece onto it, thats all :)

post-78310-0-95167400-1348828807_thumb.jpg

Edited by hop1308
  • Like 1

Yes you have circled correctly. As long as it is a vacuum line going to the intake manifold, it doesn't matter which one you cut and splice into. You're cutting into a hose, but the T piece and boost gauge are blocking it up again.

As for issues, there should be none unless you create a leak somewhere. Rationalise that your worst case scenario is having to replace the hose you cut with a new one and what's the worst that could happen?

its not letting me edit my last post, but i looked at the hoses under the hood today and noticed that my T- Piece will fit best on the hose going to the boost sensor as this hose is thinner. I have circled this hose in Blue in the picture, so just making sure, is it okay to cut this hose and put the T piece there to run the boost gauge? the Blue circled one in the post i did above

No, don't T into that hose, as said you won't get vacuum.

On the back drivers side of the intake manifold there will be a vacuum line the same size as that one which goes to your standard boost gauge, T into that.

Basically you can hook your boost gauge up to anything that's plumbed in AFTER the throttle body, except the fuel reg hose, but that's at the front of the engine anyway.

thanks for that, does anyone have a photo of the location i can T into? I'm pretty confused about it at the moment and need to know how much psi my cars at lol.

It'd be the biggest help ever if someone has a photo of the hose, thanks again.

yeah, so if anyone could get a photo of which hose im supposed to put the T piece into, it'd be a great help

I've always T'd into the end of the plenum, where the stock vacuum lines goes into the stock boost sensor for the dash (this is for a R33) I am assuming the R34 is the same.

Look at the black cap on the RHS next to the vacuum line for the brake booster, use that.. or if too hard basket, just snip the BOV vacuum line.. easy.

cp10.jpg

what's wrong with the stock GT-t gauge? reads up to 1 bar.. perfect for stock turbo

Not really! Its got bugger all notches on it so it would be hard to pick what boost it is...... Useless now with 21psi BUT even before then they were pretty useless!

I will be replacing all 3 gauges sometime soon enough.

yeah i was thinking about using the hose going to the boost sensor, but everyones saying you dont get vacuum off it, only boost. I don't really get the photo of the R33 engine, im not too familiar with the hoses of my R34 yet but didn't want to send it off somewhere just to install a boost gauge.

oh and the stock boost gauge doesn't use a vacuum line im pretty sure its purely electrical.

A photo of a R34 engine bay or the hose i should T into would be awesome and save me having to take it to a mechanic over this =\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...