Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No, don't T into that hose, as said you won't get vacuum.

On the back drivers side of the intake manifold there will be a vacuum line the same size as that one which goes to your standard boost gauge, T into that.

Basically you can hook your boost gauge up to anything that's plumbed in AFTER the throttle body, except the fuel reg hose, but that's at the front of the engine anyway.

Why cant you t into the fuel reg hose at the front. thats where mine is.

Why cant you t into the fuel reg hose at the front. thats where mine is.

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

Ah crap time to re route some hoses.

Do the S2 R33s Have a rubber cap on the front intake manifold nipple from factory?

ok, so im 99% sure this is right now lol.

I take the line i've outlined in red out of the sensor (circled in blue). Hook the T up to that, another tube back to the sensor and then the vac line from the gauge to the other end of the T.

20121128_081726-1.jpg

Correct me if i'm wrong.

I dont blame this guy lol, i knew almost nothing about the engine lay out also, and the information given here was helpful but i was a bit reluctant to T into the BOV line.

My boost gauge is still sitting in my glove box, haven't had the balls to cut anything and connect it yet either.

But just to confirm, is whats said in this post and the photo above correct? if i follow this, would the boost gauge work with no troubles from the car 100%?

so, i bought a cheapo gauge from ebay last week.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400336875504?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

how would i be able to tell if it's going to be more accurate than the stock gauge or not? Also has the same style mount you just linked Johnny :)

Speaking of good gauges and accuracy. Does anyone know what the quality of TurboTech's boost gauges are like?

I recently ordered a boost controller from TurboTech (after reading how awesome they were) and it came with a mechanical boost gauge.

Haven't hooked it up yet tho, wanted to know if it's even worth installing first.

Now I assume that they are not their own TurboTech branded boost gauges, that they merely on-sell another brands product packaged in with their own.

I also assume that with all the raving reviews of TurboTech's controllers they wouldn't go jeopardising their great reputation by supplying sub-par accessories; but hey, I might be wrong...

I'm going to assume they're pretty accurate Brad. Like you said, they wouldn't jeopardise their product with something that won't show an accurate (or more accurate than stock) reading.

This might be a very stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyway lol.

I've read around that people test the accuracy of their gauge by using an air compressor.

I don't have an air compressor, but would I be able to use one of those free air hoses at petrol stations to test my gauge?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...