Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No, don't T into that hose, as said you won't get vacuum.

On the back drivers side of the intake manifold there will be a vacuum line the same size as that one which goes to your standard boost gauge, T into that.

Basically you can hook your boost gauge up to anything that's plumbed in AFTER the throttle body, except the fuel reg hose, but that's at the front of the engine anyway.

Why cant you t into the fuel reg hose at the front. thats where mine is.

Why cant you t into the fuel reg hose at the front. thats where mine is.

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

Ah crap time to re route some hoses.

Do the S2 R33s Have a rubber cap on the front intake manifold nipple from factory?

ok, so im 99% sure this is right now lol.

I take the line i've outlined in red out of the sensor (circled in blue). Hook the T up to that, another tube back to the sensor and then the vac line from the gauge to the other end of the T.

20121128_081726-1.jpg

Correct me if i'm wrong.

I dont blame this guy lol, i knew almost nothing about the engine lay out also, and the information given here was helpful but i was a bit reluctant to T into the BOV line.

My boost gauge is still sitting in my glove box, haven't had the balls to cut anything and connect it yet either.

But just to confirm, is whats said in this post and the photo above correct? if i follow this, would the boost gauge work with no troubles from the car 100%?

so, i bought a cheapo gauge from ebay last week.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400336875504?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

how would i be able to tell if it's going to be more accurate than the stock gauge or not? Also has the same style mount you just linked Johnny :)

Speaking of good gauges and accuracy. Does anyone know what the quality of TurboTech's boost gauges are like?

I recently ordered a boost controller from TurboTech (after reading how awesome they were) and it came with a mechanical boost gauge.

Haven't hooked it up yet tho, wanted to know if it's even worth installing first.

Now I assume that they are not their own TurboTech branded boost gauges, that they merely on-sell another brands product packaged in with their own.

I also assume that with all the raving reviews of TurboTech's controllers they wouldn't go jeopardising their great reputation by supplying sub-par accessories; but hey, I might be wrong...

I'm going to assume they're pretty accurate Brad. Like you said, they wouldn't jeopardise their product with something that won't show an accurate (or more accurate than stock) reading.

This might be a very stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyway lol.

I've read around that people test the accuracy of their gauge by using an air compressor.

I don't have an air compressor, but would I be able to use one of those free air hoses at petrol stations to test my gauge?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...