Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a complete R34 GT-T

Auto

Coupe

Factory white

110xxxkm

Located in Adelaide, Pick up or postage is fine.

A few prices to start the tread off but just ask and I will write back asap.

Engine $2000

Complete minus:

Turbo

Coilpacks

Water Temp Sensor

Auto Trans $250

Diff $200

Complete ket set: Ignition, doors, boot, nismo key $200

Wheels $650

Brakes: Calipers, rotors, pads $650

Return flow Genuine HYBRID Intercooler with pipes: $450

Bilstein Suspension $800

Turbo back 3" stainless steel exhaust $700

Passengers guard $150

Drivers or Passengers side mirror $70

Dash cluster $150

Triple Center Gauges in housing $150

Climate Control $100

Dash $100

Bare Shell $800

Wingless boot $150

SOLD / unusable:

Front windscreen

Airbags

Standard steering wheel

Radiator

Headlights

Bonnet

Turbo

Coilpacks

Front Bumper

Rear Bumper

Sideskirts

Headunit

Rear Lights

post-27843-0-70499400-1349094636_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410576-wrecking-r34-turbo-auto-coupe/
Share on other sites

do you still have the coin holder and washer bottle? how much if so and postage to NSW

Washer bottle -gone

Coin Holder - Assuming thats in the lower dash part next to your right leg? if so $35 delivered

Pics of intercooler?

post-27843-0-08151100-1349146437_thumb.jpg post-27843-0-63857700-1349146444_thumb.jpg post-27843-0-35612600-1349146452_thumb.jpg post-27843-0-17398900-1349146459_thumb.jpg post-27843-0-61185400-1349146466_thumb.jpg

hey bud you still have the front guard indicators ? if so pm me

Cheers mark

I do, $50 for the pair delivered. They are the clear ones

Edited by JiN_MaN

Hey mate,

Can you PM me a photo of the climate control? And do you also have the double dinn surround for the CD player? I would be interested in that also if you could price/pm photo.

Thanks,

Andrew

Hey mate,

Can you PM me a photo of the climate control? And do you also have the double dinn surround for the CD player? I would be interested in that also if you could price/pm photo.

Thanks,

Andrew

Hopefully this covers what your after.

post-27843-0-25527900-1349146531_thumb.jpg

If you would like a more straight on photo I can grab one. I just already had this on the computer.

Climate Control $140 delivered

I dont think I have the surround that your after. Unless you can see it in the picture?

Hopefully this covers what your after.

post-27843-0-25527900-1349146531_thumb.jpg

If you would like a more straight on photo I can grab one. I just already had this on the computer.

Climate Control $140 delivered

I dont think I have the surround that your after. Unless you can see it in the picture?

Yeah it's not in the picture but that's okay. How much would you like for the climate control & the frame for holding the climate control + cd player? (I'm not sure what that part is called)

Hi sorry about your car

drivers mirror

both side dash vents

delivered to sydney

cheers

Drivers side mirror (needs a polish) $60 delivered

Dash vents $40 delivered

Yeah it's not in the picture but that's okay. How much would you like for the climate control & the frame for holding the climate control + cd player? (I'm not sure what that part is called)

Guessing your talking about the 2X metal tags that hold it all in place? If so $40 delivered for the metal bits

Hey bud yea ill take the front guard indicators of you. and also how much are you willing to sell the driver side door for ?

Cheers mark

The shell of the door has a ding in it, but all internals are in good working condition.

Price for gear surround? The outer surround, not gear selector.

Also does your 34 have stock fog lights? I'm after the switch.

Fog light Switch $20 delivered

Price for steering wheel and airbag please

Id have to repack it and stitch the center back together. :P

SOLD / unusable:

Front windscreen

Airbags

Standard steering wheel

Radiator

Headlights

Bonnet

Turbo

Coilpacks

Front Bumper

Rear Bumper

Sideskirts

Headunit

Rear Lights

Climate Control

Climate Control / Headunit Metal Holders

Passengers Door Seal

Front Guard Indicators

Edited by JiN_MaN

Hi Matt,

What are the front seats like? I should have tried to grab the ones out the car that I got the engine out of from you a long while back!

cheers

Hey,

They dont have any marks or rips or tears but the drivers seat on the drivers side has the usually bolster wear that has resulted in the padding going a bit soft.

$250 for the pair

matt is the black aluminium trim piece above the drivers door straight? if so how much for it

cheers

Yep its straight. Id have to remove the wind deflectors first

$30

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...