Jump to content
SAU Community

Having Fuel Capacity Sensor Problems

itsRICHARD
 Share

Recommended Posts

itsRICHARD Collaborator

itsRICHARD

Posted
Posted

Hey,

So since I bought my car I've been having problems with the amount of petrol left in my tank, when it shows empty and on my screen/cluster that I need to fill up, it only fills up to 65L and it's full. Sometimes only 50L and it's a full tank.

Sometimes my check fuel light comes on then after an hour or so I suddenly it shows I have half a tank.

Anyone have the same problem?

ka86 Collaborator

ka86

Posted
Posted

Common Problem. Search and you will see its a known problem as well for G35s.

Floater gets covered in varnish hence gives false readings. One way of fixing is poppinng of both yourself and use cotton buds to clean it a few times. Clean both senders. If it works then yay, if not new senders would be the way to go. I haven't heard that the gauges themeselves having a known issue.

:-)

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There are two level senders, one in each side. The car has a computer to guess the amount of fuel left from both those sensors, sometimes they get dirty but usually it is just fuel sloshing to the other side of the saddlebag tank around right hand corners.

The fuel is slowly sucked back to the pump side of the tank while driving, using vacuum generated from the return line.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

They all do it, it is normal. I wouldn't worry about it as Nissan designed it that way for a reason.

Make sure if you are pulling the pump, replace the tank orings, they are not reusable as I found out.

Roachy94 Contributor

Roachy94

Posted
Posted

Just curious Richard, did it affect the fuel economy display aswell? No idea how but I had my 300gt in getting a roadworthy and after the fuel economy had dropped from the 8.5/l mark down to around 4.5/l.

itsRICHARD Collaborator

itsRICHARD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not too sure what you mean roachy, I've had the problem since I purchased my car as well :/ I'm getting roughly 8.2km/L on the screen, mix driving. It all depends on how you're driving.

Getting roughly 400-450km out of 65L

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 😁 Definitely the car
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan · Posted

      It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • Celticsfan03
      S1 headlights?

      By Celticsfan03 · Posted

      The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • WMDC35
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
×
×
  • Create New...