R32GTS 1/4 mile times and mods

[bbenny]

I have been reading many threads on how much power it takes to run whatever time.

But i want to know what other R32GTS-T have run down the quarter.

I have slowly been ironing out all the minor probs with mine and am ready to run it down the quarter. I am runnig a HKS2530 and am putting out 210rwkw@1bar. The computer is going in for a tune and boost wound to 1.1 or 1.2bar (you tell me what i can get away with?) i expect to have around 220rwkw once tuned.

What sort of time should i expect? (assuming i am a competent driver with decent tyres and sus for the drags)

What times has everyone else done in there R32's?

[benm]

With a good launch and some nice pedal work you'll have a high 12 on offer.

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/drags.html

[meggala]

your 60' is the key low 13's or high 12's.

warm up the tyres properly it does help

meggala

[09ONE_32]

1.2 bar with a 2530 is fine, should make around 220-230rwkw. I would also say that a high 12 isn't out of the question at all. I have 205rwkw, and beat a 13.00 supercharged VN buy a car length on the roll from 60 three times in a row. so I'm hoping for a high 12 when i go down the strip in a few weeks.

[Flaps]

I have seen other r32's at WSID with T04 and T03's do 13.5-12.9.

They looked like shit drivers as well (popping the clutch on launch)

I reckon you will get in high 12's easy with a good 60 foot, just try to contain wheelspin in first.

[Sydneykid]

R32 GTST, 1245 kgs, ball bearing hi flow RB25 turbo, 225 rwkw, MT ET's, set up`suspension, 11.96 at 120 mph with 1.8 for 60'.

[bbenny]

wow thats a pretty impressive time sydneykid.

Ill only do the street tyre thing tho.

But i would be extremely happy if i could get in the 12s.

I am considering throwing in the standard suspension (as i have stiff coilovers for the street) unfortunately i only have either my standard wheels (with decent tyres) or a set of 18x8.5 with 225/40 Falken tyres

Obviously the 18s are alot wider, but very low profile, whilst the standard tyres will have more give, but not the width...

Which do you think would be better?

I would like to get some crappy 17s and run Nittos, but my budget doesnt permit...

I just dont know which setup to run.

[Sydneykid]

Hi BBenny, tyres are very important, the MT's were worth 0.5'ish. The suspension set up I did was worth 0.4, I back to backed the times on an other car, so I know its right. It also has an OS Giken twin plate so I can modulate the wheelspin and still keep the boost up , I reckon that's worth another 0.2'ish. So add those to the 11.96 and you end up with a not so impressive 13.06.

As for your questions, well I would go with the softest rear suspension I had and wind out as much rebound as I can from the front shocks. Take all the negative camber off the rear (we run 1/2 degree positive, static) and remove any toe from the rear. A set of Whiteline pinapples will help as will removing the rear HICAS. I really have no idea which tyres I'd run from your descriptions, so I'd take both sets and try them.

I also take everything I can out of the car, spare tyre, jack, street directory, last week's Maccas etc and I only have a light fuel load, I fill it up between runs. I have seen guys do the reverse (fill up the boot with stuff) to try and get traction, I would much rather set the suspension up properly so I don't have to accelerate the extra weight.

Lastly, if the weather conditions aren't spot on, I simply don't bother going. I like the sun to be shinning, so the track surface warms up. But the air needs to be cold, a hot day just sucks power and if it's raining I stay home. If there is a strong head wind I don't bother running either. If there is a tail wind, it's a bonus. :aroused:

There is much more to a good time than engine power.

[DCIEVE]

MT et's

im assuming a radial street slick? need to choose some tyres soon..

[Sydneykid]

MT et's

im assuming a radial street slick?  need to choose some tyres soon..

Nope, Mickey Thompson ET's are a US, crossply, street legal tyre with a tread pattern, not much of a pattern but enough to be classed as a street tyre, DOT approved. Since they are a cross ply, not a radial, the Japanese don't consider them for their street tyre classes.

Nitto 555's are a Japanese, radial, street legal tyre with a tread pattern, again not much of a pattern but still street legal, DOT approved. Since they are radial the Japanese (and HPI) do consider then for their street tyre classes.

Standard Skyline rims with a pair of such tyres are going to be the best value for ~$700 you will find. To pinch a saying, going to the track with real "street" tyres is like taking a knife to a gunfight. I simply wouldn't bother.

[Roy]

So with 225/40/17 Dunlop DO1Js, what tyre pressure would you be looking at using...18psi?

I can see it now, numerous track days...no probs. On enight at Calder and a cooked clutch as i only have a sprung centre puck clutch.

[Sydneykid]

So with 225/40/17 Dunlop DO1Js, what tyre pressure would you be looking at using...18psi?

I can see it now, numerous track days...no probs. On enight at Calder and a cooked clutch as i only have a sprung centre puck clutch.

Not a bad place to start Roy, if it has too much bite then up the pressure a bit, a couple of psi at a time. You will be amazed at the difference. If it still wheelspins too much go down 2 psi, I personally haven't used less than 15 psi, as I am concerned with spinning the tyre on the rim.

Clutch is an issue, as you will have to feed the power not just jump off the side. You have always wanted a twin plate anyway.

[bbenny]

Well i will be happy with anything under 13.5 but i do want to run a street radial (in accordance with HPI and japanese regulation)

All my support systems are pretty damn good, and i may even take my std front shocks to pedders or someone to have re-valved to suit drag applications.

thanks for the info on tyre pressure as that was my next question. regarding spinning the rim inside the tyre, that is something i have been concerned about. at 18psi you think this shouldnt be a prob?

[Roy]

Im going to drop my tyres down to 10psi, and hopefully the tyres will spin so much on the rim that they will be smoking at full track...

Then i can look at my 15sec time card and boast about having so much power it smoked the tyres at full track :whackit:

[DISZ-IT]

i dont know this for a fact but i heard that heating up street tyres does more harm then good, they are designed to operate best at average temps as felt on a normal road, thus doing a massive stand still before you run down the 1/4 could actually cause you to loose traction...

can anyone add to this, i would like to know forsure as i am going to take my skyline down the 1/4 this friday...

thanks!

matty

[meggala]

I found at calder my car performed better with a burn out not all tyres do

[Roy]

Could be right about the burnout thing, but my tyres do need temp to work as they are a soft compound tyre, so a nice burnout will be needed.

I think about 60-75 deg C is optimum for the D01J (i have it written down at home...can anyone else confrim D01J optimum temp)

[Flaps]

bbenny, i recommend you just go to the 1/4 as is and then after your first attempt (after realising what your time is) then go back again and work on it.

[neil_se]

i dont know this for a fact but i heard that heating up street tyres does more harm then good, they are designed to operate best at average temps as felt on a normal road

I don't know if that's true or not, but even if it is, your car will have been sitting in the staging lanes for quite a while so your tyres will be cold.

[rsx84]

R32 GTST, 1245 kgs, ball bearing hi flow RB25 turbo, 225 rwkw, MT ET's, set up`suspension, 11.96 at 120 mph with 1.8 for 60'.

just wanting to know if the weight was with you in the car or not, as thats sounds( relativily) like the set up i'm aming for but in a skyline that has a off the show room wet weight of 1150kg, very interested to know peoples answers to this thread as its a good way to see potential ET's depending on drivers :headspin: