Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys iv noticed my 33 is blowing blue smoke, mainly after coasting down a hill or in flat road, as soon as you put your foot back in the gas it puffs a big plume of blue smoke, the rocker cover breathers do not breathe or push any oil, car is running a 3076r, is it possible or worth getting rebuilt? Cooler piping is dry, so could it just be the rear seal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412106-possible-blown-turbo-seal/
Share on other sites

Is there any oil in the turbo inlet?

Could be valve stem seals, but I would put my money on turbo.

So when cruising and then when you are rolling up to a stop you get the smoke?

Most likely turbo bro.

I had the same symptoms and it was my turbo.

I had the same dramas before.What about in the morning when it's warming up is there any smoke after idling for a few minutes?. Mine had the same issues and we went thru everything to find the source but didn't find anything so thought it was turbo so it came off and a replacement went on only the next morning to start puffing smoke warming up and on some decels and stoping at lights etc etc. turned out to be the vss so ended up replacing with newer lower ks silver top. May be the turbo but won't put my house on it.

If it started doing it on the setup that you've got it for the past few month (or years) then its highly likely that the turbo has failed. Best have it removed and checked, might be a cheap fix now rather then buying a whole new core later.

If it started doing it on the setup that you've got it for the past few month (or years) then its highly likely that the turbo has failed. Best have it removed and checked, might be a cheap fix now rather then buying a whole new core later.

A turbo is more likely to blow smoke when you are under acceleration. Not decel.

To the OP:

If you let it sit and idle hot for 2-3 mins, then give it a few revs, does it blow smoke then, but clear after those few revs? (Or get noticeably less?)

You are more likely to see smoke on decel as smoke will be mixed with higher velocity of exhaust gas on acceleration making it harder to read. Also back pressure will act against the turbine shaft to the seal grove making lesser of a leak. All depending on the extend of leakage of course.

if the turbo was leaking on the intake side would there not be oil on the piping? and if on exhaust would the turbine wheel not have fouling starting to build up and be evident with taking the dump off and have a look?

i would of thought by the sound the valve guides were leaking with the vacumn drawing oil into the cylinders, although ive rarely seen a nissan engine actually smoke due to engine, usually only mitstushiti magshta shit.. lol :yes: true story..

Edited by SliverS2

if the turbo was leaking on the intake side would there not be oil on the piping? and if on exhaust would the turbine wheel not have fouling starting to build up and be evident with taking the dump off and have a look?

i would of thought by the sound the valve guides were leaking with the vacumn drawing oil into the cylinders, although ive rarely seen a nissan engine actually smoke due to engine, usually only mitstushiti magshta shit.. lol :yes: true story..

You will start seeing more as they get older. We have all the gear to do valve stem seals pretty quickly in the car now because we were getting so many that were stuffed or they'd come in to get springs done and you could crack walnuts on the old seals they were so hard.

(I didn't put food in anyone's engine)

150k+ and you're a prime candidate.

I know it's hard to believe these cars actually age this way. They are usually indestructible. Like gearboxes. Still paying $1500 for S1 gearboxes. It's because they never wear out......ever......ever ever. Now THAT'S a true story?

I like the idea of doing valve stem seals with head on, might haveto try this on a troublesome car atm

is that even possible? I always thought you needed to pop off the head, remove the valves? wait I'm thinking of valve guides... hrms

And lock the crank at TDC of the cylinders you're working on.

If s**t can happen it will and that means head off to recover a valve.

Add a gasket set, valve and seat grind, head surface etc the job has blown out big time.

These engines are at the stage where the valve stem seals are as hard as wood.

Snap on have the right gear for those collets, easy peasy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...