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Possible Blown Turbo Seal?


waanders
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Hey guys iv noticed my 33 is blowing blue smoke, mainly after coasting down a hill or in flat road, as soon as you put your foot back in the gas it puffs a big plume of blue smoke, the rocker cover breathers do not breathe or push any oil, car is running a 3076r, is it possible or worth getting rebuilt? Cooler piping is dry, so could it just be the rear seal?

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Is there any oil in the turbo inlet?

Could be valve stem seals, but I would put my money on turbo.

So when cruising and then when you are rolling up to a stop you get the smoke?

Most likely turbo bro.

I had the same symptoms and it was my turbo.

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I had the same dramas before.What about in the morning when it's warming up is there any smoke after idling for a few minutes?. Mine had the same issues and we went thru everything to find the source but didn't find anything so thought it was turbo so it came off and a replacement went on only the next morning to start puffing smoke warming up and on some decels and stoping at lights etc etc. turned out to be the vss so ended up replacing with newer lower ks silver top. May be the turbo but won't put my house on it.

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If it started doing it on the setup that you've got it for the past few month (or years) then its highly likely that the turbo has failed. Best have it removed and checked, might be a cheap fix now rather then buying a whole new core later.

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If it started doing it on the setup that you've got it for the past few month (or years) then its highly likely that the turbo has failed. Best have it removed and checked, might be a cheap fix now rather then buying a whole new core later.

A turbo is more likely to blow smoke when you are under acceleration. Not decel.

To the OP:

If you let it sit and idle hot for 2-3 mins, then give it a few revs, does it blow smoke then, but clear after those few revs? (Or get noticeably less?)

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You are more likely to see smoke on decel as smoke will be mixed with higher velocity of exhaust gas on acceleration making it harder to read. Also back pressure will act against the turbine shaft to the seal grove making lesser of a leak. All depending on the extend of leakage of course.

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if the turbo was leaking on the intake side would there not be oil on the piping? and if on exhaust would the turbine wheel not have fouling starting to build up and be evident with taking the dump off and have a look?

i would of thought by the sound the valve guides were leaking with the vacumn drawing oil into the cylinders, although ive rarely seen a nissan engine actually smoke due to engine, usually only mitstushiti magshta shit.. lol :yes: true story..

Edited by SliverS2
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if the turbo was leaking on the intake side would there not be oil on the piping? and if on exhaust would the turbine wheel not have fouling starting to build up and be evident with taking the dump off and have a look?

i would of thought by the sound the valve guides were leaking with the vacumn drawing oil into the cylinders, although ive rarely seen a nissan engine actually smoke due to engine, usually only mitstushiti magshta shit.. lol :yes: true story..

You will start seeing more as they get older. We have all the gear to do valve stem seals pretty quickly in the car now because we were getting so many that were stuffed or they'd come in to get springs done and you could crack walnuts on the old seals they were so hard.

(I didn't put food in anyone's engine)

150k+ and you're a prime candidate.

I know it's hard to believe these cars actually age this way. They are usually indestructible. Like gearboxes. Still paying $1500 for S1 gearboxes. It's because they never wear out......ever......ever ever. Now THAT'S a true story?

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And lock the crank at TDC of the cylinders you're working on.

If s**t can happen it will and that means head off to recover a valve.

Add a gasket set, valve and seat grind, head surface etc the job has blown out big time.

These engines are at the stage where the valve stem seals are as hard as wood.

Snap on have the right gear for those collets, easy peasy.

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