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Forged Internals Rb25 Drama


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There's a handful of different reasons ranging from heavy clutch kicking, revving too high, poor assembly of the engine when it was rebuilt, damaged crank prior to rebuilding but wasn't picked up before it was assembled......and the list goes on

I'd need to see every single piece in detail to be able to tell you exactly how it failed.

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No, but it will have been damaged by the same f**k-knuckle driving as damaged the motor.

speaking of engine damage, does a few bounces off the limiter cause any of the above issues, i set my limit to 6000rpm but when the tyres loose grip its bit hard to stop it bouncing off it, id imagine in the drift and drag area they'd be doing this all the time..

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speaking of engine damage, does a few bounces off the limiter cause any of the above issues, i set my limit to 6000rpm but when the tyres loose grip its bit hard to stop it bouncing off it, id imagine in the drift and drag area they'd be doing this all the time..

My limiter is set 300 higher than I plan to take it just so I never hit it

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speaking of engine damage, does a few bounces off the limiter cause any of the above issues, i set my limit to 6000rpm but when the tyres loose grip its bit hard to stop it bouncing off it, id imagine in the drift and drag area they'd be doing this all the time..

My limiter is set 300 higher than I plan to take it just so I never hit it

Yeah, that is the heart and soul of the problem and one of the solutions. Limiter bashing is very bad. Occasional limiter clipping is probably OK, but Murphy's law dictates that you will break an oil pump drive even on an occasional limiter bump. If the engine won't self destruct by running at faster revs than some notional rev limit, then it is better to let it just rev up over that notional rev limit occasionally, rather than hit an electronic rev limit possibly more frequently.

Edited by GTSBoy
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Yeah, that is the heart and soul of the problem and one of the solutions. Limiter bashing is very bad. Occasional limiter clipping is probably OK, but Murphy's law dictates that you will break an oil pump drive even on an occasional limiter bump. If the engine won't self destruct by running at faster revs than some notional rev limit, then it is better to let it just rev up ober that notional rev limit occasionally, rather than hit an electronic rev limit possibly more frequently.

thanks for the info, will raise it back up and be careful then

cheers

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thanks for the info, will raise it back up and be careful then

cheers

Can also retard timing tapering back from your desired limit a few hundred revs.. Ill be getting this done on my next tune. that way you lose lots of power before limiter so you wont be going near it deliberately. And it softens the limit somewhat I believe. i.e. my limit is 7700 atm, start retarding at that to a 8000 limiter..

Has anyone got feedback on this idea?

And back on topic, how much kicking has one got to do to abliterate a thrust bearing!?!?

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That is shockingly bad. Whatever the problem the owner would have known this engine was seriously broken LONG before he took his foot off the loud pedal.

Go out and buy a stock RB25, go from there. You can keep some ancillaries from this engine as spare.

Personally I'd take it to a different engine builder.

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Hahaha funny thing is, when the owner was trying to sell it he was saying the day after it bogged down and it got hot he started it up and there was no knocks or anything... BULLSHIT lol thing would of been knocking its head off,

I got the car pretty cheap knowing something big or small could be stuffed didn't think this much damage would of been done in 2000ks tho

Yes I have started again with a NEW bottom end and the motor is been built by a different person (not the person that built it the first time)

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Wow man, I just had a read thru this thread....

What a heartache, half of me feels sorry for you...

The other half says 'serves you right' for NOT test driving a car before purchase! Mate, that is such amatuare mistake to make. Sounds like you got caught up in the moment, the word 'skyline' tends to blind ppl to the obvious sometimes. Hopefully this whole experience opened your eyes a bit and has made you more cautious about buying things without inspection in the future.

What I am interested in tho is,

What was the total cost to get it runing again at the end of the day? (includes original purchase price, parts and labor)

Cause from what I have seen, it sounds like it could of cost a fortune.

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Wow man, I just had a read thru this thread....

What a heartache, half of me feels sorry for you...

The other half says 'serves you right' for NOT test driving a car before purchase! Mate, that is such amatuare mistake to make. Sounds like you got caught up in the moment, the word 'skyline' tends to blind ppl to the obvious sometimes. Hopefully this whole experience opened your eyes a bit and has made you more cautious about buying things without inspection in the future.

What I am interested in tho is,

What was the total cost to get it runing again at the end of the day? (includes original purchase price, parts and labor)

Cause from what I have seen, it sounds like it could of cost a fortune.

Lol first of all mate, I bought the car off a mate, already knowing something was wrong with it, etc (head was already removed from car) no one new what could be wrong with it and on purchase I knew it could turn out to be a f**ked bottom end, and it doesn't bother me as I paid for the car at a low price (what some people would pay for rego and insurance)

I only had to build the bottom end, but I've also gone with nitto rods nitto oil pump ho volume sump new garret gt3540 new plenum new throttle body

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Lol first of all mate, I bought the car off a mate, already knowing something was wrong with it, etc (head was already removed from car) no one new what could be wrong with it and on purchase I knew it could turn out to be a f**ked bottom end, and it doesn't bother me as I paid for the car at a low price (what some people would pay for rego and insurance)

I only had to build the bottom end, but I've also gone with nitto rods nitto oil pump ho volume sump new garret gt3540 new plenum new throttle body

Just seems like a hell of a lot of trouble to go thru to get a working/running Skyline.

There are 33 out there (running) for like $5K. I was just interested as to why you've chose the 'hard road' so to speak?

Might just be me, but anyone that sells you a lemon is no 'mate'... Unless he didn't want to sell it to you because of the issues with it, but you insisted, in that case he is quilt free.

Everybody's logic is different, but I just don't see the sense in buying a wreck? I could maybe also understand if you had always wanted a skyline but didn't have enough cash and then this popped up at the right price, so u grabbed it.

I'd still love to know the total cost of this exercise $$$? But if you don't want to say, I will respect that.

Either way, best of luck with it. Hope it works out.

Edited by AshR34GTT
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Just seems like a hell of a lot of trouble to go thru to get a working/running Skyline.

There are 33 out there (running) for like $5K. I was just interested as to why you've chose the 'hard road' so to speak?

Might just be me, but anyone that sells you a lemon is no 'mate'... Unless he didn't want to sell it to you because of the issues with it, but you insisted, in that case he is quilt free.

Everybody's logic is different, but I just don't see the sense in buying a wreck? I could maybe also understand if you had always wanted a skyline but didn't have enough cash and then this popped up at the right price, so u grabbed it.

I'd still love to know the total cost of this exercise $$$? But if you don't want to say, I will respect that.

Either way, best of luck with it. Hope it works out.

Could have a running car for $5k but it wouldn't be anywhere near what his car is going to be and sounds as though he paid that little that if he wanted he could get a stock rb25 motor drop it in and still have done well

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