Jump to content
SAU Community

To Blend Or Not To Blend?

Iron Mike

By Iron Mike,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Iron Mike Proficient

Iron Mike

Posted
Posted

Ok so I recently bought the Z-tune front bar for my GTR, along with the nismo side skirts and rear pods. I dropped it all off at the body shop who said that no blending would be required for the skirts and pods, but that the front gaurds would most likely need to be for the front bar (knowing how pedantic I am). MY problem with this is that my paint is in PERFECT condition, and i don't want to tarnish the original factory paint in any way (ie. having it rubbed down then recleared). How close of a match do you think I can get bayside blue without blending? What are the pros and cons? If i decide to put my original V-Spec II front bar back on then it won't match because the gaurds will have been blended...What are your opinions. Should I ask them to just paint and fit and not worry about blending?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412319-to-blend-or-not-to-blend/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Cant they do a paint match on your current paint? I've had it done on mine where they have a machine that they put against your paint and it matches it

I thought you only needed to blend colours if they were on the same panel. Your getting all new seperate panels painted so I wouldnt have thought it would be a problem if they matched the paint properly

JDMGTR17 Contributor

JDMGTR17

Posted
Posted

Being that bay side blue is a three layer colour its quite tricky to do edge to edge matches. I'd recommend that you let the panel shop do it there way. Unless you bought the car brand new, you can't be %100 is all original factory paint either. When it comes to paint, what 'mum doesn't know won't hurt her'. I'm sure I saw you at the show on sunday, she looked bloody neat mate. Any way, if it was mine, I'd let them blend where necessary. Let us know how ya go, n put some pics up

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

When you say "tarnish the original..." the fact that you are unbolting the whole front end panels etc and replacing them could be considered as "tarnishing" it.

I love the Z-Tune front end, so in no way does this mean I am criticising you, but the fact that you are modifying the car (yes it's reversible but anyone who knows cars will see the non-factory bolt work on the front guards) with differernt body work will mean it's "tarnished".

In fact, if it's not matched (e.g. blended) it would be more obviously "tarnished" because the front panels don't match the doors etc.

If you really want to put the original front bar back on, get that resprayed at the same time as the new kit.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

MY problem with this is that my paint is in PERFECT condition,

it is in 10yo+ condition you mean.

Match will always be close, but it'll never be perfect unless you blend as you'll never get it 100% right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...