Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I am planning on upgrading my turbo soon. Just after opinions and info regarding what others have found to be the best Brand/Model for a Series 1. Also ease of installation. And what were the results and any subsequent issues found. Many thanks. Justin

That is Rb25det Neo motor with a OP6 turbine housing. There are plenty of people including my self using hypergear high flows making 250rwkws+ with pretty good response. lilcrash had some thing else on it but wasn't a high flow, plus he's had heaps of other problems.

Car came with a Apexi safc 2. Will check out hypergear. Currently waiting on coils from jp. So a good option while its out of action. Any idea of cost? Once my mods are done it will go to chasers for dyno

It was a small SS1 and was aiming for super responsive 250rwkws. This turbo has made around 250rwkws on three different skylines including R34 with 20psi of boost by 3200rpms before it was built for particular customer.

I've been told it doesn't hit boost on his car till about 5000RPMs on the same time it had a engine and other things wrong before it was sold not long after. In this particular case, it is a very tempered package with many different parts working together, I don't believe the finger should be pointed to the turbocharger without looking into the rest, and I some how wished I could have the car for few weeks going through with to spot any problem there might be.

The OP6 high flow would be a bigger size turbo then the SS1 for the Rb25det Neo motor. Most people are doing the easy 250rwkws mark with it with very good drivability, there are couple of dyno readings of it in our high flow thread worth looking at, overall It's a good and inexpensive option for a street level performance upgrade.

Car came with a Apexi safc 2. Will check out hypergear. Currently waiting on coils from jp. So a good option while its out of action. Any idea of cost? Once my mods are done it will go to chasers for dyno

Contact Stao from Hypergear and tell him what you have and what you want and he will sort you out a price.

And if you are not going manual anytime soon consider buying this:

http://www.trademe.c...079&permanent=0

I ran my highflow with an SAFC and SITC for a while til I got my manual box. If you want a decent tune you need to be able to adjust timing as well.

(Let me know if you need help to get it)

4bidn1 on here had a GCG 2IU hiflow..was a good thing except it surged like a motherf**ker with a auto and the stagea weight.

Something like that in the hypergear range without the surge would be sweet as for a daily

I had a GCG hiflow - was able to tune out the surge with my Jaycar boost controller!

Yes I'm there (in NZ). Buy now is optional and this vendor hasn't offered it. Yes people can put in a last minute bid to top you. What I would do is decide the most you want to pay ($120, $150 or whatever and then enter that figure and tick the box that says "auto bid" and then place bid. It won't show up and your bid will remain at $100 unless someone outbids you. If someone bids $110 a bid for you at one dollar more will automatically be made ($111 in that case) and this will continue up to the maximum you have selected. If no-one else bids you will still get it for NZ$100 (AU$79.19). Postage should be about $20 -$25.

I had a GCG hiflow - was able to tune out the surge with my Jaycar boost controller!

Theres a few types of gcg hi-flow..you probally didnt have this one..lol, it was the 500 but with a 2IU, everyone usually uses the 450...

the OP6 housing would have helped, not sure if it would

totally fix it

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Yes I'm there (in NZ). Buy now is optional and this vendor hasn't offered it. Yes people can put in a last minute bid to top you. What I would do is decide the most you want to pay ($120, $150 or whatever and then enter that figure and tick the box that says "auto bid" and then place bid. It won't show up and your bid will remain at $100 unless someone outbids you. If someone bids $110 a bid for you at one dollar more will automatically be made ($111 in that case) and this will continue up to the maximum you have selected. If no-one else bids you will still get it for NZ$100 (AU$79.19). Postage should be about $20 -$25.

Gt3076 :)

would be insane with a bigger high stall converter.......

currently just got a shift kit, but when it reaches positive pressure it 'hoiks' up quick to 1bar (current setting)

v.quick package with forged bottom end & cams ;)

still yet to do final 1.5bar tune tho :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...