Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Easy to source, nice and cheap: what's not to like?

I have also been in regular contact with another Y34 owner who has successfully sourced (Maxima?) brake pads, and shimmed them to fit our cars: will post part numbers when I get them...

Also, just FYI: not sure if it's a common issue (I haven't experienced it), but he had ongoing, intermittent rough-running issues, which after much diagnosis turned out to be failing ignition coils.

Just a couple of things to bear in mind: once we get enough info, it may be a good idea to create a Y34 parts/service sticky thread, as there's precious little information available on the interwebs...

Yeah i agree - i've found there's really not much info available on there however Aus-Vip.com i have found has a little.. not much.. but a little haha. I have the same intermittent rough-running issues but i had put it down to coilpacks as it seems to be the same sort of issue as what I had years ago in an S13 then replaced the coilpacks and all fixed.

I havn't bothered to buy new coilpacks yet for my Y34 but was planning on getting a set of Yellow Jackets from performance-wise.

Also I had my radiator end tanks replaced which turned out to be the same/very similar to Navara radiator end tanks so they were used :)

And when i needed new brake pads I took the worn out pads to SA Brake & Clutch and they matched them up with some replacements - no modification was needed either.

yeah: the brake pad thing seemed a little odd to me: I figure I'll be able to source a set of Endless or similar quite easily. Will do some research to ascertain whether ours are the same as the USDM M45- I'd say it's a pretty safe bet. Also, have seen a number of Y34s going at auction with what I believe to be CPV35 Brembos fitted, so it may be that we run the same brakes as a non-brembo V35, given Mr. Nissan's tendency to use interchangeable parts.... Once again: more research required.

For anyone looking for more info on part compatibility for Y34's (servicing, etc) see this thread: http://aus-vip.com/topic/2778-y34-gloriacedric-maintenance-info-part-number-listing/

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...