Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My series two stag has issues with over heating when I go for a drive along the high way all of a sudden

The first thing I've done to stop this happening is changed the coolant total forward flush then reverse flush and install a high flow thomostat. But goin for a drive this weekend the issue was still there !!! I'm in need of ideas what to try next I'm looking at a aluminum radiators with dual 12 inch fans. Has anyone done this mod and has it fitted when u remove the clutch fan ???? Please help thanks Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413024-heating-issues-need-help/
Share on other sites

I installed a Fenix 42mm radiator thru SAU NSW. They are a well made generic looking radiator. There was some trimming of the shroud required. I would leave the clutch fan as it has been shown to be the best bet for controlling temperatures. The factory radiator is around 12mm thick so it is no wonder the car can overheat in Australia.

Thanks for the reply most of the radiators on eBay are around 52mm thick do u believe that more trimming would be required if it 40mm one needed it ? Do u think 52 mm is too thick ? Is the eBay ones any good there Around $300

I believe a stock twin core radiator with the stock fan and shroud is best. I am tracking my car with the original cooling system apart from an allegedly higher flowing thermostat and will be upgrading just to a thicker stock type radiator.

Alternatively you could just take it to a radiator shop to replace the top tank and properly clean out your core... reverse flushing won't always suffice.

Things to consider,

- How old is the car i.e. kms, the radiator could be blocked, they require the tanks taken off and rodded to clean properly.

- Do you know if it has been regualrly serviced, for fluids etc, lack of anti corrosive eats the aluminium core, inclding the heater core.

I would not change the standard fan, I have been building and racing drift cars since ages ago and they work the best especially with the standard fan shroud.

The core is uber thin on S2 stageas. In cold climates they would be adequate but in Australia they seem struggle. The 52mm one should be similar to install but bigger isn't always better so do some research before committing to buying one.

The cars just ticked over 90 thousand so not much at all. I regularly check fuilds and replace when nessersary I've done coolant twice now first time when I replaced the turbo to a hight flow item and second time was when the heating issues started. I just had a quick look at just japs web site the replacement drop in alloy radiator retains the fatory fan trim so I'm thinking they should be the best for a full replacement option.

Has anyone brought ebay ones ?

I went outside and measured the factory radiators side and it is 15mm

I have tracked the car before so I want the best for the car.

Thanks for the replys guys

Pretty close to nailing the cause right there in your last post Matt, & attribute what Wolverine added about Oz's higher temps into the mix(although Tassie doesn't get hot :whistling: ). Higher flowing turbo. Q: Did you have ANY cooling issues before you fitted you high flow? Higher boost generates higher intake & combustion temps, & if your cooling system isn't up to scratch then overheating occurs. Upgrade your radiator & also look at replace your viscous clutch hub (fan)(with a genuine item, as with my experience, cheaper generic ones are shit!-Do it right first time), as it's been working overtime it seems. Excess heat from the radiator hammering the hub seriously depletes the silicone core inside the hub.

i bought the justjap cooling pro one

flushed the system beforehand (old rad)

bolted the new one on

mustn't have flushed it well enough because all the loose scale from the motor blocked the alloy rad and made it overheat if i drove too long on the highway

it had just enough flow for daily driving but 100/110 it would slowly creep up (thank god i have an ecutalk display, the stock guage doesn't even move as you get near 110掳c)

ended up replacing it with a brand new koyo stock replacement for $220 and its never missed a beat since

I actually ordered one of the 52MM alloy radiators from eBay on Thursday from seller asi_performance. It was $164.95 Delivered Buy it now from Melbourne. Hopefully it arrives tomorrow as my standard radiator is leaking.

It is a R33 item but they have been proven in the past to fit into C34 Stageas. I'm not sure if it will suit auto and manual vehicles or manual only but that didn't worry me as I am running a PWR transmission cooler.

I thought I might aswell upgrade at the same time as I want to start towing with the Stagea soon (hence the trans cooler). I willl be retaining standard clutch fan and shroud.

Will let you guys know how I get on when it's installed.

Chris.

  On 05/11/2012 at 7:11 AM, R32 4 Door said:

I actually ordered one of the 52MM alloy radiators from eBay on Thursday from seller asi_performance. It was $164.95 Delivered Buy it now from Melbourne. Hopefully it arrives tomorrow as my standard radiator is leaking.

It is a R33 item but they have been proven in the past to fit into C34 Stageas. I'm not sure if it will suit auto and manual vehicles or manual only but that didn't worry me as I am running a PWR transmission cooler.

I thought I might aswell upgrade at the same time as I want to start towing with the Stagea soon (hence the trans cooler). I willl be retaining standard clutch fan and shroud.

Will let you guys know how I get on when it's installed.

Chris.

If its installed

Ok I purchased a cooling pro 40 mm triple core radiator from just jap and fitted it last night

Cooling system is a lot more efficient thermos took a lot longer time too come on lol had a look at the clutch fan and water pump while everything was off

Clutch fans fine but the water pump is leaking out of the hole in the bottom which means it is stuffed

Looks like a big job too replace

post-70873-0-96559800-1352596925_thumb.jpg

post-70873-0-49499700-1352596947_thumb.jpg

post-70873-0-52420000-1352596971_thumb.jpg

Yeah it's not too far away 10,000 kms or so ,

holidays coming up which means more traveling , Ill have too save for that !!!!,looks too be around the $500 mark for parts

When I first brought the car it had 65,000 km on the clock.

Are the eBay packs any good ?? Looks like the neo's water pumps a little bit different from the normally rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
  • Create New...