Jump to content
SAU Community

Full-Race Ets-Pro Centre Diff Torque Split Controller Install Into R32 Gtr


Recommended Posts

Or maybe the wires to the control knob are crossed. See what it does when turned all the way to the right. Sounds like it's getting a crossed signal somewhere and system is being told give full pressure.

Ah yeah that's true too - I'll pull the whole lot out and have a look to make sure everything is attached correctly. I did it per the PDF in this thread but I could very easily have stuffed something up :)

front diff seems to be working overtime even when dialled back? When the car is cold and I reverse out of my driveway, the front of the car hops around a lot when I turn the wheel....almost feels like it wants to break something...didn't do that prior to installing the ETS Pro...I have a Nismo 1.5 way in the front.

more than likely everything is fine, but the 1.5way Nismo LSD is locking/unlocking to cause that vibration. Definitely a good idea to check wiring but I suspect its the clutches in your front lsd

sound exactly like the symptoms I had when TPS wires were wrong way round. If it does it when ETS is in RWD then I'd say it's mechanical.

hi, could you clarify what was wrong with the TPS? It is only a single output, 0-5V reference

Had a hyper tune intake with single throttle body. Replaced TPS but got wrong one. Was able to calibrate with motec but it was giving 5v at zero throttle and 0v WOT. When reversing it's the same as JH32 explained.

But tight diff is logical. Especially the Nismo. I had 1.5 Nismo in the rear and was tight as f###

  • Like 1

more than likely everything is fine, but the 1.5way Nismo LSD is locking/unlocking to cause that vibration. Definitely a good idea to check wiring but I suspect its the clutches in your front lsd

If I disable the ETS Pro though by "flicking the switch" to get into RWD, the shudder goes away.... I will try as tricstar mentioned anyhow once it's all up and running again and report back :)

the ETS-Pro maintains a low duty cycle and never fully opens/disconnects the clutchpacks, to keep 4wd response instantaneous. when you switch to RWD it goes to 0 duty and the clutchpack is fully open, there is no load on the diff.

I was talking to a mate last night about how tunable the ETS - pro is and it reminded me of something. My gtr had an OS giken 2 way in the front and when I first installed the ETS-pro I had the same problem. So I down loaded the software and plugged the unit into my laptop and reduced the preload, problem solved.

I'm surprised that wasn't your first suggestion Geoff?

So I'd try that before pulling it all out.

  • 3 months later...

Hi Geoff,

so in rear wheel drive mode the solenoid has 0% applied and at full locked up is set is at 100% .

Just curious as I was looking at making a LSD display to indicate the split load rear to front

EG :: 70% REAR, 30% FRONT.

More accurate for the end user rather than having the back light dim and brighten as an indication as to where you maybe set at when the adjustment changed.

Regards

Dave.

Edited by supercharged88

Hi all,

does anyone have this software you can send me please.

My email is [email protected]

I am running a Windows 7 OS laptop that I use for tuning only,

This has Windows 7 - 64 bit.

I have tried downloading the software over and over and I keep getting the following error.

I would very much appreciate if someone can pass on the download.

I forgot to mention I have loaded the USB software and works fine.

Kind

Regards

Dave.

post-51830-0-66976400-1444726585_thumb.gif

Edited by supercharged88

Hi Geoff,

so in rear wheel drive mode the solenoid has 0% applied and at full locked up is set is at 100% .

Just curious as I was looking at making a LSD display to indicate the split load rear to front

EG :: 70% REAR, 30% FRONT.

More accurate for the end user rather than having the back light dim and brighten as an indication as to where you maybe set at when the adjustment changed.

Regards

Dave.

Hi Dave, the correct way to do this is to read xfer Pressure (0-238psi) - Installing the pickup at the back of the transmission is not too hard to do, and ive seen an adaptor posted online for this:

91146d1437076729t-ets-pro-center-diff-to

Hi all,

does anyone have this software you can send me please.

My email is [email protected]

I am running a Windows 7 OS laptop that I use for tuning only,

This has Windows 7 - 64 bit.

I have tried downloading the software over and over and I keep getting the following error.

I would very much appreciate if someone can pass on the download.

I forgot to mention I have loaded the USB software and works fine.

Kind

Regards

Dave.

from the electrical engineers, please let me know if this works for you:

cleardot.gif

"I recommend to download from this link (V1.1):

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/downloads/DCCDPro.rar

Then extract the two files and keep them in one folder. run the .exe and if Windows 7 or 8 need to run in compatibility mode.

If they use this link(V1.2):

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/downloads/DCCDPro.exe

Run the .exe and if Windows 7 or 8 need to run in compatibility mode.

I have checked and all are in good shape.

the ETS-Pro maintains a low duty cycle and never fully opens/disconnects the clutchpacks, to keep 4wd response instantaneous. when you switch to RWD it goes to 0 duty and the clutchpack is fully open, there is no load on the diff.

Does this mean the clutch packs are always slipping and does this accelerate wear appreciably?

^^No. If you look at R33 and R34 oem the system will do this. The result is no lag in torque split response. Compared to R32 where the oem computer is very old and outdated, very slow response times due to the pressure dropping off too far. If you have a very high power application and are concerned about xfer case, it is a good idea to install a cooler and/or consider adding an 11th plate/disc to the wet clutch

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

Thanks Gary, I do indeed have an R32 so hence very interested in the system. Was just concerned that - particularly in the case of the 32 - making a system that has x duty then run constantly at x+1 will break or wear something exponentially.

Power levels not withstanding, from what you're saying can I take it that this won't be an issue?

  • 3 months later...

hi Jimmy, depending on your location - Galvsport has done right by my customers: http://www.galvsport.com/ Try speaking with Josh, they are great to work with

  • 5 months later...

Hi Geoff

 

I am really keen on installing one of these.  Is it best to purchase from full race website direct?  

Any workshop in Victoria you know who is experienced in installing the system and check to make sure it operates as intended

Thanks

Matt

Edited by tangomatt

hi matt, you can purchase directly from our website or you can call our office.  Im not sure who to recommend for install in victoria.  I will ask a few contacts.  feel free to email me directly at [email protected] with any other questions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...