Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All the parts you can see in the pics are for sale. some even free. These are the only parts i have left as the rest of the car has been sold so dont ask for something you dont see. I'm sorry about my previous thread but there were too many people asking for stuff i dont have and i only just finally got my mates camera so i could take photos so here they are. if you want something that you see here pm me with the part/s you want in the subject so i dont have heaps of emails just saying 'parts' it makes things painfully slow as i am only on a modem connection and it takes so long to open pages. Also include an offer in your pm. Thanks :D

badges - only the gt badges are still available. the front badge is sold

battery - only done about 5000k's with this battery

sold - boot trim jack cover

standard cat-back zorst - very quiet.

sold - front left guard. not a ding or scratch on it.

various bits - battery bracket, radiator seats, etc

ecu - stock

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41389-r32-gtst-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

dash cluster

dash cluster surround

glovebox

speedo - 72472Kms

steering column surround

passenger seat

rear seat

bracket covers for front seats - the bits that cover where the seats bolt down

steering wheel - original - good cond.

SOLD --> vents

headlight - passenger side (broken) - free - come and get it if theres bits on it you want.

reverse light - driver side

spotlights - off m-spec front bar - including surrounds

sold - indicator - front - drivers side

headlight - drivers side

indicators - both quaterpanels

rear lights - passenger side

sold - indicator - front - passenger side

dash cluster

dash cluster surround

glovebox

speedo - 72472Kms

steering column surround

passenger seat

rear seat

bracket covers for front seats - the bits that cover where the seats bolt down

steering wheel - original - good cond.

various air vents from dash

Have you still got the steering wheel if so how much and will you post?

Hey Mate,

Can i get a Break down of Each Individual price on the following items

boot trim jack cover

front left guard

Steering Wheel

indicator - front - passenger side

indicator - front - Driver side

I have the money ready to purchase these.

Your welcome to PM me if you want to

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey sinisteR32,

If you still have the headlight - drivers side can I give you some $$ and get it shipped to Sydney? I'm also after a drivers side blinker. Let me know what you can do.

You can call/SMS me on 0413 980 100 or email me at [email protected] if that's cool.

Thanks heaps for your time mate.

headlight - passenger side

reverse light - driver side

spotlights - off m-spec front bar - including surrounds

indicator - front - drivers side

headlight - drivers side - free - come and get it if theres bits on it you want.

indicators - both quaterpanels

rear lights - passenger side

indicator - front - passenger side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...