Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've seen a thread about the company in New Zealand, "Hybrid" that make the RB manifolds but has anyone had any tried and tested luck with their turbo range? I see some OK feedback for them on ebay. A little skeptical though. They're very cheap, makes me wonder if to go by 'what you get is what you pay for' rule of thumb or not.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414063-nz-hybrid-turbos/
Share on other sites

I have one of his low-mount rb25 steam pipe manifolds. It was a little difficult trying to bolt it onto the head, even with the engine out the car. The dump pipe position was out about 15-20cm to the side, so had to do away with the exhaust bracket/brace. Put 200k's on it so far and it hasnt cracked or anything. Will see how it handles 20psi. But it looks and feels pretty solid, good material etc. good price if you compare it to a chinese stainless one that is pretty much proven to crack eventually.

I have one of his low-mount rb25 steam pipe manifolds. It was a little difficult trying to bolt it onto the head, even with the engine out the car. The dump pipe position was out about 15-20cm to the side, so had to do away with the exhaust bracket/brace. Put 200k's on it so far and it hasnt cracked or anything. Will see how it handles 20psi. But it looks and feels pretty solid, good material etc. good price if you compare it to a chinese stainless one that is pretty much proven to crack eventually.

O.T. but i just installed the low mount manifold and it was fine, done about 500k and no dramas.

Back to the topic sorry

I'm from nz and me and heaps of the boys ran those turbos and many others in terms of bang for buck they are pretty good give you constant reliable power for what you pay.

And we limiter skid the shit out of our cars turbos held up fine. But bear in mind they aren't going to last as long as 1500 dollar hks turbo or anything like that

No worries gots keep us posted as well. Interested to see what you end up with but yea we abused the crap out of those card every Tuesday and Thursday night for Skids back home they did the Job alright.

Ya don't happen I be in Queensland are ya?

Edited by Cyifly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...