Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm trying to (still) sort out my rebuild, and have been advised that the N1 oil pump I have won't be reliably up to the 400awkw we are aiming for. I was looking at the Tomei or HKS units, but have concerns that they will flow too much and fill the head...? I know the Tomei can be adjusted for flow, but will it be sufficient to make it a safe engine? I'm happy to spend where I need to, but don't want a hand grenade under the bonnet...

Once again, I'm looking for qualified advice from those who have experience with building reliable rb26 engines.

Cheers peeps!

Micah.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414663-oil-pump-question-600hp-rb26/
Share on other sites

Mate, Tomei Oil Pump will do the job for you for sure.

If you put oil restrictors in your block (also Tomei) that will resolve the oil flow to your head which are not expensive.

Cheers,

Anthony

Edited by Ants

Tomei have an external adjustment for the bypass. So they are better in this respect to the other pumps.

You need a large capacity sump to go wth it as well as the restrictor as mentioned.

Then make sure the blow by is under control as at the end of the day that is what keeps the oil in the head.

Tomei pump is the cream of the crop... But as stated you need to then spend on a sump (and then the $$$ each time you service), ensure all the oiling is 100% right and so on.

Search the FI section for more info on N1 pumps, honestly there is not the problem people make out.

Countless people using them fine.

Thanks for the advice guys: already have the tomei baffles fitted, so to be safe I'm looking at the tomei pump and restrictors?

I'm a big fan of overengineered and underworked... I want to do this once and do it right. I just don't want to overspend if its not necessary.

Everything else (bar the turbos: I'm now running hks gtss twins) has been built to support 700+hp

I just want the old girl to be reliable and SAFE.

You need a larger sump - 9L or so. The Tomei "extension" really isn't enough to be really safe... Restrictors and a oil cooler will still see you run low on oil with a Tomei pump.

Reliable and safe is one thing (and can be done), spending 10k more than you need is another :)

Just a quick question what is it going to be used for i.e. drag, track, occasional street warrior and what car is it going into (I see you have a Stagea which is awesome).

This will assist in clarifying what you may need to do i.e. head oil return feed, sump extension etc...

Edited by Ants

your making a lot of power and you will definitely need a proper oil control set up. With any larger oil pump you will definitely need a larger sump. have a read of this.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

and this..

http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html

Thanks all for your advice: according to SK's thread (which I will adhere to), all I need is a 1.5mm restrictor , as my car is 100% street driven.

Very much appreciate the help!

Micah

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys I'm on the same boat here I've done a lot of research about problem issues with GTR's mainly oil feed

I am aswell building a 600hp now when I spoke to my mechanic he just suggested that it will be fine to just run with a N1 oil pump and tomei baffles and that would be find I suggested what about a sump and he said it will be fine what are your thoughts

Hey guys I'm on the same boat here I've done a lot of research about problem issues with GTR's mainly oil feed

I am aswell building a 600hp now when I spoke to my mechanic he just suggested that it will be fine to just run with a N1 oil pump and tomei baffles and that would be find I suggested what about a sump and he said it will be fine what are your thoughts

As they discussed above, it depends on your intended use:

100% street = can get away with N1 & stock baffeled sump

any track work = High flow pump (Tomie or Nitto) + 9l baffled sump with extended pickup

My thoughts are that's it's better to be safe then sorry.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

...and yes, it is my stagea engine... Cheers for the quick feedback guys!

Hey Micah, hows the Bimmer going?

I used the N1 on my stagea, I have the tomei baffles in the sump, the car was driven very hard and was tracked. Never had a problem, 375kw at the wheels.

Cheers,

Ken

  • 7 months later...

Tomei pump is the cream of the crop... But as stated you need to then spend on a sump (and then the $$$ each time you service), ensure all the oiling is 100% right and so on.

Search the FI section for more info on N1 pumps, honestly there is not the problem people make out.

Countless people using them fine.

could you please send the link for this mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...