Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Joey's R32 Gtr E-Flex, Twinscroll 83/75 Results

GTR_JOEY

By GTR_JOEY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 300
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GTR_JOEY
GTR_JOEY

Engine in!!!

GTR_JOEY
GTR_JOEY

Small present from the mrs

XKLABA
XKLABA

Lol, as if, I would much prefer to be doing it with twins then a big single

Posted Images

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Don't know how I missed this thread before, but I'm glad it got bumped...it's been a great read.

Right now I'm in deep contemplation of single turbo for my 2.75L stroker (if you want to call it that).

I took the liberty of finding some dynos from both Joey and Simon's cars early on at lower boost levels. Albeit both on E85, they are both still at around 20 psi. Joey stated that his 8375 was pretty much out of breath on top and I used the dyno that is missing the 24psi midrange in this comparison (for fairness). I assumed his was standard cast wheel and I also found that his was the .91 housing and I saw where Geoff at full race recommended 1.00 for more power. For the money, I just don't think this turbo can be beat for a nice powerband and while Simon has made STUPID big numbers I think on a 2.6L and for $600 US, this is looking like a strong candidate for a pumpgas turbo. Of course I am not taking the EFR 8374 ($$$$$$$) into comparison yet.

Anyway hope this helps put things into perspective for others looking for information. If anyone finds a dyno of a low boost stroker build with the 8375 (cast) or 6266, let me know...I'd love to add them.

Patrick

post-136202-0-51390000-1428798994_thumb.png

Edited by HarrisRacing
GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the post Patrick.

Your right the 83/75 is one of if not the best bang for buck turbo on the market. As you would have seen on my graph it did nose over a bit. My comments in your previous thread were as a comparison to my own results

My new set up improvements consists of

2.9 stroker

Raised compression to 9.1

Cleaned up head

260 cams with 11mm lift with a very aggressive fast opening lobe

Ferrea valve train with duel valve springs to eliminate any possibility of valve float (a much better set up the the previous tomei gear I had, old springs had only 60 pound of seat pressure)

Ceramic coated exhuast side.

This combination will be a large improvement to response, but I'm also looking to really get the most out of this turbo by pushing it past 450rwkw

Fingers crossed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...