Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Due to circumstances (newborn daughter), I would like to sell my R33.

R33, RB25DET 5 spd. Dark grey or charcoal in colour. Paint has some clear coat peeling, but otherwise pretty good.

I have owned this car since roughly August, and have carried out below repairs/mods;

- Installed Mongoose M80 series alarm with the built in timer

- Replaced the apparently new Yellow jackets with Spitfires and a new OEM connector loom

- Repaired the shitty job on rolling the rear guards, was starting to catch on the tires when going over bumps

- Now has Hypergear ATR43SS2 billet turbo with braided lines.Has approx 100km on install

- Replaced the rubbish led conversion installed in the dash and AC and boost gauge, much better angles and visual light

- Replaced brake light globes and HID ballasts and globes due to failure

- Walbro GSS342 installed into tank correctly, was loose in cradle

- Tightened BOV and check all hose work

- Cleaned AACV to improve idle

- Fixed AC, now works properly

- Installed rear strut brace

- New battery when purchased

- New clutch when purchased

- Just re-registered 6 months, as who wants to have to do it at Xmas

Also has a Kenwood DDX-4038BT with a new usb to ipod/iphone/aux cable. Runs front 6" and tweeters, and rear 6x9". It also has the wiring for an amp/sub in boot.

Has Starcorp Impul (with free gutter rash) 18" wheels, the rear a deep dish and run Kumho Ecsta 265/35/18 I think. Front are whatever yum cha tires fitted by previous owner(s).

Has a HDi front mount, Apexi pod and new MAF, seems to be a large new radiator, never shows hints of overheating on M5 peak afternoon traffic.

Car has only been worked on by JEM since I have owned it, it first went in for an inspection and fault finding (was hitting R&R). Turns out previous owner must have been running a piggyback comp and boost tee set at 15psi. Due to fault on car, I didn't allow it to boost until rectified.

Car does not get thrashed or abused, I only work up the M5 in Arncliffe so it barely gets to do the speed limit.

Car is usually garaged, and washed occasionally.

It has since gone in for the turbo changeover, and received a service on diff and gearbox. Turbo was replaced due to a slight bit of oil dropping into front pipe, not failure.

All old parts will go with the car at sale as I would not need them if sold.

On the dyno it made 213rwkw with its minimal modifications. Spoken to Dean at JEM, he implies with a Nistune or Power FC (or Haltech Platinum Pro) it should sneak into the 250rwkw mark easily with a tune.

Unsure about the compression, but motor is strong and healthy.

Unsure how to upload happy snaps or dyno sheet, but can send by email or phone if requested.

Located in Campbelltown area, can be viewed in Arncliffe when at work.

Looking for around 9000ono, or swap for a car more suited to a baby seat, maybe VX SS upwards ?

Thanks for looking.

EDIT * Car has approx 122 thou km, also has tow gear fitted

post-97574-0-30245500-1354600128_thumb.jpg

Edited by mittons
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414956-series-1-r33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

82 views and no questions or comments yet ?

Come on people, the worst I can do is say no to an offer!

Not desperate, but would like my daughter in a more accommodating vehicle..

  • 1 month later...

Due to a pest of a person forever promising he is *approved* for his personal loan and a complete tool, I would like to part ways with my R33 more now.

Looking around the market, I would say price drop to $7,500 ono might be more fitting ?

  • 2 weeks later...

p.m'd mate.

Replied. For anyone interested, I'm not desperate to sell. I just would like to get a car that I'd feel much safer having my daughter be driven in.

This does not mean I will sell it for 6k or other low offers.

The car is ridiculous to drive in the wet weather, even with 265's on the rear.

  • 3 weeks later...

New silica front tyres, Accelera or something like that. Has vastly improved the wet weather driving, noted the old front tyres were mismatched tread pattern.

Eyeing off a set of 480cc inj, and a Power FC.. Someone buy this car to stop me spending more money!

BUMP!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...