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Hey Roy yeah i didnt even think to mention what pads they were front and rear lol. It is squirmy when cold under hard braking and improves slightly when hot under hard braking only. ie on the limit of abs kicking in. The squirm is very manageable and doesnt feel like its going to come out on me like Ash mentioned. At one of the drive days I had an instructor with me in the car and he thinks there is too much rear braking causing it.

Odds are the DS2500s work from cold and the PMUs need to be over 300deg C before they are in their operating range.

So the DS2500s are offering a higher co-efficient of friction from cold when the fronts are still thinking about getting up to temp. If you still have the DS2500s that the car came with slap them back in and see of the problem goes away. If it does than thats the issue.

Has anyone ran a Pagid RS4-2 with their Alcons. On paper they are a tad better than DS2500s....they are the next pad I am trying

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Loved them personally - good compromise for a car that still gets street driven.

Once they are around 30-25% left they tend to break up if you hit the track or push them hard on a hills run etc so just be mindful of that, but then they are a lot cheaper than other options that don't.

Decided to bite the bullet and order a set of 356mm D2's from import monster next week as my factory rotors and pads are due for a change.

Does anyone know what the pads that come with them are like on the track? Should I bother getting some decent pads straight up?

The street pad they come with isn't bad for street and what they are in a standard kit form type thing.

But having then changed mine to DS2500, you can certainly notice a difference/improvement in all areas... So if you are just circuit then yeah, change them. If just street duties leave them as is...

Or... get a set of DS3000 or another track only oriented type pad and swap the D2 pad back in afterwards for daily driving (some people do that too)

  • Like 1

The street pad they come with isn't bad for street and what they are in a standard kit form type thing.

But having then changed mine to DS2500, you can certainly notice a difference/improvement in all areas... So if you are just circuit then yeah, change them. If just street duties leave them as is...

Or... get a set of DS3000 or another track only oriented type pad and swap the D2 pad back in afterwards for daily driving (some people do that too)

Are there any issues running 2 different pads on the same rotor? Like issues with bedding them in etc?

I dont have big brakes yet as i am a sook but just for interests sake?

Recently found out that new Project Mu pads don't like an old rotors (that has another brand pad material on them), makes them hard to bed.

Otherwise have not heard of that before then and it was only that brand. I know people who's swapped DS3000s in for a track day and back to a shitty pad for street and it was ok so could be select situations

As always the answer is it depends. You are odds on going to have all sorts of problems if you are going from a semi metallic pad to a ceramic style pad.

From there you can also have problems when simply changing pad compounds. Best bet is that when you go from your street pad to a race pad make sure you do a weeks worth of kms on the race pad in light duty drives. The cold pad will generally not get up to temp and be rather abrasive. Give the rotors a good wipe down with some brake cleaner and then on the way to the track (or night before) follow your usual bed in procedure.

Like wise when switching back leave the race pad in for some street driving to wip pad deposits off using the high friction-cold pad then swap over to your street pad and bed them.

It worked ok for me when I was running Hawks vs RB74s. But frankly that was back when I ran 280mm std brakes and I think with any half decent brake setup then you can quite easily get a pad that serves both purposes these days

  • 2 weeks later...

You can...but when you are targetting a runout figure lower than .15mm...many say lower then that in performance applications with large rotors then I think most people frown upon rubbing an abrasive on a rotor face in an uncontrolled manner. Also be careful of the grit you use as you dont want to "polish" or improve any surface face that will encourage glazing

  • 4 weeks later...

I heard that is possibility to get 370 mm rotors for Alcon Advantage Extreme. I run with 365 mm kit front and 350 rear, same as here http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html but will need to change rotors soon, and I was thinking about bigger rotors with hats. Can anyone confirm this ?

Stop being weak and go the big boys. My Alcons look the same to the eye as the Advantage Extreme that you are running but they take a bigger rotor in 380 x 35.5. That is about the smallest diameter you should run and they take up to 410mm! But the real benefit is the extra 3-4mm in width and vane size. IF braking is borderline than you have a rather epicly powerful and probably heavy car and 5mm rotor diam will make stuff all difference. Not unless that diam increase also means a change from 48 vane rotorss to 72 vane for instance

I bought R32 GTR, and I plan to buy and install Alcon brakes on this car. Question : does anyone here, plan to order Alcon soon ? I think JDL would be keen to offer little better price for two buyers.

I took two kits off him when I got mine. He didn't give me anything off, however, it's worth a try.

I took two kits off him when I got mine. He didn't give me anything off, however, it's worth a try.

They can give little discount, because I've already bought of them something for my R33, with other forum member, and we received additional £100 off.

Edited by V8cat

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